New Rockland wine bar and eatery emphasizes small plates and wines
Ariel Aufgang, who owns Aufgang Architects in Suffern, had long coveted the building down the street from his office when it was formerly occupied by Capital One. When he heard it was closing years ago, he reached out to find out its fate and when the chance arose, he bought it, leasing it to Java Love Coffee Roasting Co. which was there for five years.
When they closed in January, instead of leasing it to someone else, he decided to take it over and turn it into the kind of place he and his friends would want to hang out at.
The result is Lavagna, a snazzy 54-seat wine bar and Italian eatery that opens May 7.
Aufgang, a first-time restaurateur and longtime Rockland resident, calls his passion project. He owns it with Don Brennan of Mahwah, N.J.-based Recon Construction.
Did they keep the vault?
For those who previously got coffee here, the transformation is stunning. The entire space, was gutted — except for the cement floor that still exists from the Capital One days — and the old vault (more about that in a minute).
Aufgang has streamlined it into a place that's approachable, playful and sophisticated. There's a marble bar with 10 bar stools that takes center stage in the back, along with a salumeria area to the right that's an extension of the kitchen where you can watch Chef David Werner in action. There's also a pizza oven where Roman-style pies will be made.
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What's most compelling — and noticeable upon walking in — are the black walls decorated with colorful chalk illustrations commemorating different aspects of Italian life and history by Nyack artist Mike Delaney.
Blurbs about their meaning will be in place before the restaurant opens — Aufgang said the artist can explain it all better than he can — but there's a directionality starting with Roman figures and objects that represent the Earth, sun and passion.
"Being inside the dining room is like being inside the art," said Aufgang, who emphasized that Delaney had free reign to do whatever he wanted. "I basically gave him the keys to the place and let him at it."
The old bank vault is now the wine cellar with an open door diners are encouraged to walk in and check out. "For every wine you see you in there, Lloyd has a story," said Aufgang of host Lloyd Leon, a certified somelier who for 25 years worked at the since-closed Marcello's, a longtime Suffern institution.
As someone who's been to Italy too many times to count, Leon is eager — and excited — to share (and educate) diners about the 115 labels that hail from almost every region in Italy as well as from producers in Greece, New Zealand, Spain and France. He has personal relationships with each one of them. Same with the 14 different Italian craft beers that will also be served here.
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What about the food?
Diners can expect a variety of small and larger plates with an emphasis on seasonality and a nod to the Mediterranean. "The concept is for diners to order multiple plates and share," said Werner.
Among the options: Burrata with spring pea, shaved asparagus, pea tendrils and Pinot Grigio vinaigrette; a mushroom pizza with whipped ricotta; Fava Beans, Tomato and Sausage pasta with farfalle, parsley, basil, red onion, dried Calabrian chili, pecorino cheese and extra virgin olive oil; Oyster Crudo; Local Black Bass; Hanger Steak and Spanish Octopus.
Werner, who's been cooking for 22 years including most recently for Chef John DeLucie's NYC restaurant Spritz, said they also want to expand on the salumeria idea so each time diners visit there will be different meats and cheeses to try. (An antique slicer can be viewed from the open kitchen.)
Story continues after gallery.
Creativity rules
The genesis of project, explained Aufgang, was "How much fun could we have letting people express their creativity?" That means allowing Werner to express his creativity through food, Delaney through his art and Leon through his wine selections.
It even includes his mom, Esther Aufgang, whose pottery is being used for many of the restaurant's serving plates. (The fish plate is my personal favorite.)
The three men emphasized the casualness of the spot — of coming here for a date night, with a gaggle of friends or simply the kind of place you impromptu drop by after work — with no reservations required.
The name of the restaurant means blackboard in Italian and, along with the blackboard art, there are two more blackboards that display specials, one near the bar and one near the wine vault. Both Leon and Aufgang said the palette of the place is, essentially, a blackboard for diners to come, be spontaneous, enjoy caviar, a pizza or a bottle of wine and color in their own experience.
If you go
Address: 50 Lafeyette Ave., Suffern, 845-533-4160
Hours: Dinner only to start but eventually hours will be noon to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Sunday brunch hours to come.
Good to know: There's a newly-paved parking lot adjacent to the building with plenty of spaces.
Stay tuned: Watch their social media for an official opening date. When open for brunch, there will be a completely new menu.
Jeanne Muchnick covers food and dining. Click here for her most recent articles and follow her latest dining adventures on Instagram @jeannemuchnick or via the lohudfood newsletter.
This article originally appeared on Rockland/Westchester Journal News: Soon in Suffern NY: Lavagna, Italian-focused wine bar and restaurant
