Sink your teeth into one of the best lunch specials in town
It's been four years since the pandemic. But offering lunch downtown is still a risky move. A lot of people continue to work from home. And those who are in the office are usually in just two or three days a week. That's why I was elated when one of my favorite downtown spots, Crown Cantina, announced it was starting seven-day-a-week lunch service back in May. I stopped by last Wednesday to see how things were going.
While by no means packed, the restaurant was busy. The dining room was alive with coworkers talking business and young women sipping wine. Near the front door, an older gentleman sat by himself eating a bowl of beans. I like that old men can find a good bowl of beans downtown these days. It makes me happy.
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The food here is outrageously good. At least I think so. And if you come for lunch, I recommend ordering the taco bundle, a special that costs $15 and includes two sizable tacos and substantial portions of rice and beans.
There is a variety of tacos to choose from (fish, sweet potato and brisket, among others) and unlike some other Mexican spots around town, Crown Cantina lets you mix and match. I went with a tender braised pork collar seasoned with recado rojo (a blend of warming spices) and Yucatan-style salsa ? made with habanero peppers, tomatoes, onions and orange juice. I paired it with the spot-on barbacoa with lamb's neck, smoky, spicy salsa and pickled onions.
Please keep this in mind: The rice and beans are no afterthought at Crown Cantina. The charro beans (a Tex-Mex dish of pinto beans cooked in tomato sauce with seasoning meats) are extraordinary. The butter rice is, too. When I posted a photo of my meal on Instagram, my friend Heather, who has excellent taste in food, responded "Those beans and rice are the best in Cincy."
Based on my experiences around town, I have to agree.
Crown Cantina, 326 E. Eighth St., Downtown, 513-345-6783, crowncantina.com.
Highly Recommended is a weekly spotlight on some of food writer Keith Pandolfi's favorite finds as he eats his way across Greater Cincinnati. Find more of his recent food writing here.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: These tacos and charro beans hit the spot for lunch in Cincinnati
