Slipping Inside Bordeaux’s Most Exclusive Wineries
Make no mistake: Bordeaux is not Napa Valley. Though the French wine country’s legendary chateaux are increasingly rolling out the welcome mat for visitors, many of the region’s most highly regarded labels only open their doors for a select few. Enter Mary Dardenne, whose Decanter Tours holds the key to tastings at elusive wineries like Chateaux Latour and Lafite Rothschild. Here, she takes us inside Bordeaux’s best.
How do you decipher the different crus?
There are huge contrasts in Bordeaux. Most visitors don’t realize that only five percent of the thousands of properties in the region are classified as premium chateaux. The rest are attainable, affordable, and accessible. Visitors often remark that they are surprised at the diversity in Bordeaux—not only of the soils and grape varieties, but also of the wine styles, types of people, and chateaux.
More from Robb Report
This Famed Burgundy House Has Expanded Its Wine Portfolio North-With Excellent Results
Inside Relais de la Reine, a New Development on the Croisette in Cannes
What’s the best strategy for experiencing that large diversity?
We try to plan a mix of bling chateaux—like Pavie or Mouton [Rothschild]—and family-owned chateaux. We also suggest visits [that] are exceptional and surprising, like Lamothe Bergeron, a chateau that most people may not have heard of but that offers a unique tour.
Dreamer Company/Shutterstock
How do we get into the grand crus?
We have access to all the most famous wineries, but I would caution a word of advice: Plan at least six months in advance. Most of the top properties are not in the tourism business and generally only offer one or two visits per day.
Which winery is a must-see right now?
Chateau Sigalas Rabaud, the smallest first classified growth in Sauternes. It has a new terrace where you can enjoy an aperitif with views over the vines, and you’ll likely be welcomed personally by a member of the family—perhaps even the Count of Sigalas himself. What are the best chateaux for a meal? In the Medoc, I like to have lunch at Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron; it’s very exclusive and just what one expects of a chateau experience. We also offer a picnic on Saturdays at Chateau La Croizille in Saint-émilion for a more informal experience. The chateau is located on a hillside with plunging views, and we have a picnic table amongst the vines.
Best of Robb Report
Why a Heritage Turkey Is the Best Thanksgiving Bird—and How to Get One
The 10 Best Wines to Pair With Steak, From Cabernet to Malbec
Sign up for Robbreport's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
