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Sourcing Journal

Spinnova to Open R&D Spinning Operation in Portugal with Tearfil

Claire Wilson
2 min read

Finnish sustainable textile company Spinnova is partnering with Portuguese spinning mill Tearfil in an R&D yarn spinning operation that will be located at Tearfil’s facilities in Guimar?es, Portugal.

The goal of the project is to bring Spinnova’s sustainable textile fibers up to scale while bringing the company physically closer to global textile markets. The Guimar?es operation will replace the one planned for Jyv?skyl?, Finland, announced in 2021. The technology delivery and installation are expected to take place in the fall of this year, with the spinning line expected to be operational by the end of the year.

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Spinnova executives say the new location will mean a somewhat lower capital investment and operational expenses.

“The location in Portugal speeds up our product development work and gives us the opportunity to cooperate on development with key players in the industry,” said Ben Selby, Spinnova interim CEO.  “We are very pleased to have agreed [on] a cooperation model with Tearfil where we are able to benefit from Tearfil’s decades of experience and expertise in yarn-spinning.”

Spinnova has the patents on breakthrough technology for making chemical-free sustainable textile fiber out of wood or waste, such as leather, textile or agricultural waste. The materials are quickly biodegradable and circular, and create zero waste or microplastics. The company recently announced the opening of a large-scale facility for the production of wood-based fiber in a 50/50 joint venture with Suzano, the world’s largest pulp producer. The joint venture is called Woodspin.

Spinnova has collaborated with Marimekko, Adidas, H&M and The North Face.

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The technology supplier for its new spinning mill is the Swiss-based Rieter, a top supplier of systems for spinning yarn from staple. It develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components to cost-effectively convert natural and man-made fibers and their blends. Its cutting-edge technology is known for minimizing the use of resources and therefore contributing to sustainability.

Tearfil is a 50-year-old mill operation that produces ring spun, compact, open end, siro spun, vortex/air jet, injected, multi-colored, mélange, flamé and jaspé yarns. Its fiber partners include Lenzing, Dupont Sorona, Flocus and Renewcell.

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