Stéphane Rolland Couture Fall 2023
Stéphane Rolland presented a dramatic, elegant collection for fall, which paid homage to Maria Callas, who was born 100 years ago.
His fashion show took place in the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, where models glided up the central white marble staircases and walked along the mosaic floors of the theater for guests seated there. The acoustic backdrop was Callas herself, both singing and speaking.
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The show was filmed by French director Claude Lelouch, of “Un Homme et Une Femme” fame.
“I am a big fan of Claude’s,” said Rolland. And Lelouch is a fan of his, too, asking the designer after his last show if they could work together on a project.
“How could I refuse?” Rolland said, describing Lelouch as an icon whom he respects. The director plans to use the footage in his next movie, “Finalement,” which is meant to be shown at a state dinner at the Opéra Garnier prior to the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Rolland dreamed up all 31 dresses as a tribute to Callas. He’d seen images of her performing in the ‘60s, with le-tout Paris in attendance.
“Those images really show what was the glam and the elegance in Paris at that moment,” said Rolland.
They became the theme of the collection, as well as Callas’ presence and drama. Numerous pieces riffed on the operas that she starred in.
Silhouettes were minimalist and graphic, often with a cubic volume, and both a boldness and a fragility. Dresses mostly came in black or white, with red or gold details.
Using his signature fabrics, Rolland created dresses like the trapeze dress in white wool gazar with an open back and embroidery made of porcelain flowers. A long, black strapless dress in black crepe and velvet was ornamented with a false diamond fan plastron. The looks were all well-fashioned for a night at the opera — or on the town.
Launch Gallery: Stéphane Rolland Couture Fall 2023
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