The stylish man’s guide to spring-summer dressing
‘A flower blossoms for its own joy,’ was one of Oscar Wilde’s poetic turns of phrase. And so too should your wardrobe. It’s been a dreary old spring so it feels fitting to put a touch of vim into our style choices now that there’s a weak sliver of blue sky on the horizon.
Seasonal clothes don’t exist any more, thanks to a general relaxing of the rules and our ever-more-erratic climate. Where once there was a great sense of ceremony to the packing away of hefty knitwear (vacuum bags for some, although the freezer’s also a moth-proofing tip) and clomping footwear, we’re less tied to sartorial customs these days.
Winter’s a time when men’s clothing comes alive: the form and fit of a serious, upright suit, the substance of a magisterial coat. In the lighter months, we can find ourselves a little adrift; the sense of propriety that comes with a well-tailored jacket doesn’t necessarily extend into warmer days. That said, there are some fine examples of getting spring-weather dressing right. Look to the Italian noir god Marcello Mastroianni for a masterclass in sprezzatura – one imagines him eternally sipping an espresso in the Piazza Navona dressed in a crisp white linen suit.
The British reality is often more down to earth: ill-fitting polo shirts, slogan T-shirts, cargo shorts and shoes showcasing unspeakable feet. There’s no clear guide for spring because the weather’s still transient; warmer temperatures but mottled skies, pints al fresco but mind the mud patch. So how to negotiate it all?
Your new jacket
Blame fashion magazines and the marketing bods at e-tail websites for this neat little moniker: the shacket. Simply, a happy hybrid between a shirt and a jacket, taking the template of the former but in more substantial materials such as heavyweight flannel or cord. Elsewhere, blousons are also a go-to in spring – they’re flyaway and sleek, with a rich history in military dress that means they were built for ease and dynamism.
Lightweight Bomber Jacket, ￡230, Gant; Colins Corduroy Overshirt, ￡68, Reiss
The spring suit
Non-traditionally coloured suits can be tricky to navigate, but it doesn’t have to be a full fuchsia assault (though we doff a cap to the gent who wants to go there). Sombre navies and blacks sometimes don’t feel in step with the magnolia buds and blue skies of the season, so it’s worth eyeing up a suit in a subtle hue; a light blue, sage or stone can lend a modern touch.
Another tweak to your tailoring format is to opt for a half-canvas jacket, which is without lining on the back panel, aside from the shoulders, so lighter and more breathable.
Green Regular Fit Trimmed Suit Jacket, ￡74, Next; Fintry Blazer, ￡195, Wax London
It’s in the details
The point is not spring-specific, but there are certain touches a man can add to his standard wardrobe that offer a point of difference and personality (and a general sense of joy in dressing). Coloured socks are an example (not patterned: that is garish-uncle-at-Christmas territory), likewise a lightweight scarf. If you’re particularly rakish, a smart hat always makes a statement – a pristine panama or trilby lends a gentlemanly air all too lacking in the way men dress today.
Sunglasses tend to be an impulse purchase at the airport – nothing wrong with that – but unless you’re particularly taken with something statement-making, tortoiseshell or standard black are the mainstays. Steer clear of rimless varieties or the overly sporty options; wraparounds might look great on Princess Anne, but the rest of us should use them for undertaking outdoor activities rather than wearing with our smart spring clothes.
Original Wayfarer Classic sunglasses, ￡164, Ray-Ban; Drake’s Red Floral Cotton Silk Scarf, ￡139.99, House of Huntington
Step up your shirting
It can be instantly rejuvenating to tweak the standard shirting formula of ‘long sleeve, neutral colour’. You might want to consider a grandad collar in lieu of the everyday variety – and it’s also worth thinking about the
fabric. A flannel or denim shirt can work as a cover-up for spring’s temperamental weather. The latter is also pleasingly in step with the current vogue for all things cowboy Americana.
Of course, the floral shirt in its myriad guises is an indication that balmier months are upon us. Your best ‘in’ here is a more muted kind of floral – think abstract digital prints or micro-sized blossoms. Otherwise, these can read a little ‘dad on holiday’. Leave the full, glorious botanicals and hibiscus frills for your summer break.
Sunspel x Katie Scott Notched Collar Shirt, ￡195, Harrods; Officine Générale Gaston Grandad-Collar Cotton-Seersucker Shirt, ￡195, Mr Porter
On chinos and shorts
Spring calls for cheerful colour, and the chino tends to be its happy home. Red chinos are famously controversial – a Fulham bar once banned them – and bold colours are not necessarily wearable in all situations, but preppy variants exude a certain collegiate charm. See tan, light blue and even pink options, or ones dotted in preppy-coded embroidered emblems – Ralph Lauren’s involve playful flags and tennis racquets.
As for shorts, wait until summer proper. Even then it’s wise to be restrained in how you wear them. Not to the office, nor formal events, outside of a real heatwave. And opt for tailored, smart varieties that cut off just above the knee; longer, baggier versions look a little studenty.
Slim Fit Embroidered Chino, ￡169, Ralph Lauren; Ecru Camel Shorts, ￡17.95, Moss
Spring footwear decoded
The search for lighter and less formal footwear can result in missteps; my particular bugbears are ‘performance sports tech’ sandal-trainer hybrids so mired in crust that they’re on the cusp of becoming sentient, or creaking leather loafers with those painful, elongated uppers. As in all things men’s style, it is best to take a lesson from our Italian brothers: choose smart driving shoes the likes of which Marche-based shoe behemoth Tod’s does better than anyone else. Alternatively, less formal suede loafers and boat shoes can be your spring wingmen in the footwear department. Boat shoes evolved in the preppy environs of the US East Coast and look pleasingly Ivy League on spring days.
And now to sandals, a thorny subject. Some adhere to the rule that they’re for holiday attire only. That seems a shame, because sandals have become a great deal more ‘dressy’ in recent years and can look appropriate in the right set-up. Closed-toe is generally easier to negotiate, in a handsome leather rather than anything woven or raffia – leave that to your son on his gap year. Never wear in formal settings or a work environment, naturally, and it’s always advisable to properly assess how presentable your feet are; keep them trim and smart with a pedicure set or book in for one at a barber shop that handles such things.
Gommino Driving Shoes, ￡510, Tod’s; Leather Fisherman Sandals, ￡49, John Lewis