Taste Test: This Award-Winning New Bourbon Actually Lives Up to Its Hype
I get a lot of emails from whiskey brands touting the awards they’ve won, and generally speaking I don’t pay much attention to them. I’m not some awards conspiracy theorist (trust me, they are out there). Generally speaking, these are competently run blind tastings, regardless of the fact that brands pay to get into the competitions and then have to pay to use the logos on their packaging if they win. The reality is that a lot of people like reading about whiskey awards, and sometimes these accolades actually help a brand by increasing hype, popularity, and sales. Such is the case with Smokeye Whiskey, a relatively new brand that picked up some awards over the past year—and it turns out, very deservedly so.
Specifically, Smokeye Hill won a double gold medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, a gold medal at the International Wine & Spirit Competition, and “Bourbon of the Year” at Fred Minnick’s Ascot Awards. Fantastic. But a lot of whiskeys win a lot of medals, so I was eager to see how this one actually tasted, and I am happy to report that it’s a very good new bourbon. Smokeye Hill was founded by entrepreneur Blake Johns in 2018, and bottles started hitting shelves this past spring. The whiskey is contract distilled in Lawrenceburg, Ind. (most likely MGP) from a proprietary mashbill that includes more than 50 percent heirloom blue corn in addition to yellow corn, rye, and barley. Instead of aging the whiskey in Indiana, as is often the case, the white dog, or new make spirit, is brought to Colorado Springs where it is barreled and matured. According to the brand, the bourbon is more than five years old and aged in a combination of 53-gallon and smaller 30-gallon barrels that are charred to various levels, before being bottled at 93 proof with no chill filtration.
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The fact that smaller barrels are used came as a surprise to me after tasting the bourbon. That’s because sometimes those smaller barrels lead to an intensity of flavor due to the increased surface area while aging that can read as green or woody on the palate. That is not the case here at all, however. The liquid is a light amber color, and aromas of sweet maple, fruit, vanilla, and grain lead on the nose. That’s followed by a mix of caramel, cranberry spice, brown sugar, honey, leather, wood spice, a bit of grass, and a hint of licorice on the palate. This is a very well balanced bourbon that oscillates between notes of deep oak, young wood, fruits, and spice, four flavor corners that all lead to a pleasant, warming finish.
There is also a barrel-proof version of the bourbon available, which seems to be a popular choice among whiskey fans. Personally, I find that expression to be a bit too strong—the ABV varies depending on the batch, but the whiskey I sampled clocked in at 65.5 percent. I know there are many who will disagree, but as someone who tastes a whole lot of whiskey I think some of the nuance is lost at this proof. But the 93-proof version really sings, and is a more than solid new entry into the crowded bourbon playing field. And here’s one more totally made-up award that Smokeye can add to its medal display: the Robb Report Quadruple Backsplash 24-Karat Gold Bourbon That Actually Lives Up to Hype Award for 2024.
Score: 96
100 Worth trading your first born for
95 – 99 In the Pantheon: A trophy for the cabinet
90 – 94 Great: An excited nod from friends when you pour them a dram
85 – 89 Very Good: Delicious enough to buy, but not quite special enough to chase on the secondary market
80 – 84 Good: More of your everyday drinker, solid and reliable
Below 80 It’s alright: Honestly, we probably won’t waste your time and ours with this
Every week Jonah Flicker tastes the most buzzworthy and interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back each Friday for his latest review.
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