How to Tile a Vanity

A tiled vanity gives your bathroom a designer look without completely redesigning the whole room. If you plan to tile a bathroom wall, tiling the vanity will make the vanity and sink an integral part of the space.

Even if your existing base cabinet is in good condition, you'll have to build up the top. Commercial vanity countertops are made to handle less weight. Remove the top and add bracing, a 3/4-inch plywood base, and polyethylene waterproofing membrane.

Buy the tile for all the surfaces you'll be tiling — vanity tile, wall tile, and bullnose trim. That way you can be more certain of getting tiles of a consistent color throughout the entire project. Make sure the cartons have the same lot number.

Select the right tile to use on your vanity. Use glazed tile 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. Purchase a sink whose texture matches the glaze — vitreous china and enameled cast iron are good choices. Self-rimming sinks are easy to install, and the rim will cover the rough edges of the cut tile.

What You Need

• Circular saw

• Cordless drill

• Jigsaw

• Level

• Stapler

• Notched trowel

• Beater block

• Straightedge

• Caulking gun

• Grout float

• Drywall screws

• 3/4-inch exterior grade plywood

• Cement backerboard

• Backerboard screws

• Tile

• Thinset mortar

• 4-millimeter polyethylene or 15-pound felt

• Grout

Other Sink Installations

Both flush-mounted and underhung sinks make for easier cleaning, but they require special countertop treatments.

Install a flush-mounted sink with its rim resting on plywood substrate. Install concrete backerboard around the sink and top it with tiles that partially rest on top of the sink flange.

Install and plumb an underhung sink after the substrate is installed. Then install tiles, as shown, with thin vertical pieces around the perimeter and bullnose trim overlapping them.

Step 1: Build Vanity Top

Build your own base or modify a commercial unit. Glue and screw bracing inside the cabinet, then install 3/4-inch exterior plywood with a 1-inch overhang, according to your design. Staple waterproofing membrane to the plywood and install 1/2-inch backerboard.

Step 2: Cut Sink Hole

Mark the outline and cut line of the sink using the manufacturer's template. If a template isn't available, center the sink upside down on the surface and mark its shape. Draw a second line 1 inch inside the first line and drill a starter hole. Cut the second line with a jigsaw.

Step 3: Lay Out Tiles

Lay out the tiles in a dry run using spacers. Try to minimize cutting as much as possible. Mark the edges of your dry run and snap chalk lines to guide the installation. Then comb thinset onto the backerboard.

Step 4: Place Tiles

Set the tiles in place and level them. Cut tiles don't have to fit exactly to the edge of the sink hole but must not extend beyond the edge. Keep the tiles in line using a metal straightedge. Let the mortar cure, then grout the tiles.

Step 5: Set Sink

When the grout has cured, run a bead of silicone caulk around the edge of the hole and set in the sink. To avoid pinched fingers, ask a helper to support the bottom of the sink. Install and tighten any mounting clips and hook up the plumbing lines. Run another bead of caulk around the edge of the sink.