Tod’s RTW Fall 2022

Gigi Hadid opening the Tod’s show in an all-black pantsuit and coat telegraphed creative director Walter Chiapponi’s goal of offering a more essential and severe look for fall.

Existentialism, he said, was a more “comforting and honest” way to present his views, “negating frivolity,” impacted by the last few weeks, and still coping with the consequences of the pandemic.

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That’s not to say the collection was monotone. He splashed Bermuda pants and capes with a cascade of sequins — right down to the boots.

Chiapponi also offered color — lots of brown hues reminiscent of Tod’s core leather business; terrific mixed-media outerwear, and lots of cozy knitwear.

The designer embellished jackets with leather patches marked by the brand’s signature gommini motif. The ‘90s slim silhouette contrasted with exquisitely crafted trenches and fuzzy wool coats. Chiapponi revisited the bag made famous by Lady Diana with no lining, making it pliable — “easy to toss into a suitcase because we all hope to start traveling again.”

The designer has been honing a specific look for Tod’s and this collection was one of his best, with a clear point of view and well executed.

Launch Gallery: Tod's RTW Fall 2022

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