Triarchy Tackles Denim’s Plastic Problem with Rubber
The trials and tribulations of making sustainable denim were aired out at Coterie New York last week.
In a conversation with Valentino Vettori, founder of the interactive museum Arcadia Earth, Adam Taubenfligel, Triarchy co-founder and sustainability lead, shared how the Los Angeles-based brand overcomes hurdles to responsibly source and produce fashionable jeans.
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“Triarchy was founded by my brother, sister and I as a vehicle to make denim better. We saw how wasteful the industry was—when it comes to water consumption, chemical use, plastics—and we thought, ‘there must be a better way,’” Taubenfligel said. “We need to be a brand that can show people how to be that better way.”
Sourcing plastic alternatives is a high priority for the brand. Though Triarchy eliminated polyester from its fabrics, focusing on Tencel and organic cotton instead, it couldn’t ignore ongoing market demand for soft, comfortable and stretchy jeans.
“We have conditioned the consumer to expect stretch jeans over the last 15-20 years, so asking them to give that up is impossible. It’s not going to happen,” Taubenfligel said. “So as a brand, to eliminate that, it was a really hard thing to do. But every pair of stretch jeans that has ever been made and sold is going to sit in a landfill for 200-plus years at the end of life. It sheds microplastics during its life—it’s an abhorrent product.”
Most consumers aren’t even aware that their stretch jeans contain plastic, Taubenfligel added.
Last month, Triarchy introduced plastic-free stretch jeans made with Candiani Denim’s biodegradable Coreva technology. Instead of using spandex or petroleum-based plastic, Coreva uses natural rubber derived from trees to provide the familiar elastic feel as well as offer a biodegradable alternative. Candiani claims that lab tests have proven that jeans made with Coreva also break down into compost that fertilizes the soil in less than two years. Triarchy currently holds the exclusive on the fabric in North America through 2024.
The 14-piece Fall/Winter 2023 Plastic-Free Stretch collection includes a denim skirt, a denim vest, and four signature jean styles in neutral and indigo shades. The Ms. Onassis style is a high-rise wide-leg jean made with organic cotton and natural rubber. Ms. Keaton is a high-rise baggy jean with an elevated waistline and straight leg, while the Ms. Fonda is an ode to the 1970s with a cinched waist and fitted hips.
“It’s actually kind of a miracle that we’re able to get plastic-free stretch jeans in our core collection to retail for $298—it’s a miracle because it should be closer to $400,” Taubenfligel said. “But the partners and everyone [involved] are aware of how important this is for the industry.”
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