Unspun, Walmart Launch 3D Weaving Pilot for Work Pants
Pants made with 3D weaving technology are coming to a Walmart near you.
That is the goal of a new pilot project between the largest U.S. retailer and fashion tech company Unspun.
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Launched Thursday, the two companies will explore how Unspun’s 3D weaving technology called Vega can be used to make workwear style pants under a Walmart house brand. The pilot aims to help reduce the environmental impact of garment production, offer a more sustainable process for meeting apparel demand and support the companies’ shared commitment to shift more textile manufacturing back to the U.S.
Traditionally, yarn is woven into one-dimensional fabrics, which are then cut and assembled into garments. This creates waste and takes significant time and multiple manufacturing steps. With 3D weaving, yarn is spun directly into completed garments.
Unspun debuted this new approach to garment manufacturing last June following the close of a $14 million Series A funding led by Lowercarbon. At the time of the launch, the B Corp said it had already secured multi-million-dollar contracts to scale its Vega operations and establish a micro-factory in Oakland, Cali.
Eckhaus Latta became the first brand to use Vega last fall at New York Fashion Week. The two pant styles went on sale earlier this month, selling for $396-$600.
The partnership with Walmart contributes to Unspun’s objective of deploying over 350 Vega machines throughout North America by 2030, enabling them to achieve an annual production capacity of around 10 million units.
Walmart and Unspun will roll out more phases if the pilot proves successful.
Having the largest U.S. retailer on its side allows Unspun to make a larger impact. Walmart is working toward a goal to be powered 100 percent by renewable energy by 2035. Last year, it launched a pilot for innovative carbon capture and conversion technology also for the apparel manufacturing supply chain.
“The pressing need to address ongoing climate change, reduce carbonization, and drive to more transparent and localized apparel manufacturing practices is at the heart of our mission,” said Beth Esponnette, co-founder of Unspun. “We have been running low-volume production of commercial products at our first micro-factory with proven third-party life cycle assessments to back the impact of this new type of production.
“Now, together with Walmart, we see an enormous opportunity to take our innovations to scale, with the potential to disrupt the garment manufacturing industry, bring jobs to the USA, and drastically reduce waste in apparel,” she continued.
The partnership supports Walmart’s mission to promote U.S. manufacturing. In 2021, Walmart announced a 10-year, $350 billion commitment to sourcing goods made, grown or assembled in the U.S. This is on top of hosting an annual open call for small and medium-sized businesses with products made, grown or assembled in the U.S. to grow to pitch shelf-ready products to Walmart and Sam’s Club merchants.
The retailer reports that more than two-thirds of its annual product spend is on goods made, grown or assembled in the U.S.
“At Walmart, we are laser-focused on bringing innovation to our supply chain to better serve our customers and solve industry challenges, and unspun has the potential to do just that,” said Andrea Albright, Walmart’s executive vice president, sourcing. “The technology we are piloting with unspun has the potential to unlock more skilled job creation in the U.S., meet consumer demand for locally made garments and deliver on our commitment for greater transparency and sustainability in our apparel supply chain.”
Shuo Yang, a leading climate-tech investor for Lowercarbon Capital, launded Walmart for leading by example.
“Unspun’s technology aims to be the fastest, highest quality, and most economical way to make woven garments period. Innovative industry leaders like Walmart are beginning to see the future potential impact and we expect there to be continued interest as the Unspun team weave the future of manufacturing,” he said.