What to Watch: Women’s Tailoring That Gives Boardroom Bros a Run for Their Money
LONDON — The trickle down of Kamala Harris’ designer suits on the campaign trail and the Democratic National Convention has reached the other side of the pond in the U.K. and beyond. Brands are swiftly expanding their offerings to cater to women’s tailoring, with special care to detail and design.
On Savile Row, the street that’s synonymous with men’s tailoring, space is opening up more and more for women.
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The 203-year-old bespoke tailor Norton & Sons launched its first tailoring service for women this summer with hopes of attracting more female customers.
In the past the brand has created special pieces for the likes of Queen Victoria and has worked on tailoring ranges for Christopher Kane, Jenny Packham and The Kooples.
“This renewed focus on women’s tailoring aligns with broader cultural shifts toward sustainability, individuality and the rejection of fast fashion. As more women ascend to leadership roles and seek professional attire that embodies confidence and style, the demand for high-quality, tailor-made clothing has grown,” said Hannah Bond, Norton & Sons’ womenswear representative.
The brand’s fully bespoke suiting begins at 6,000 British pounds, while made-to-measure options start at 2,500 British pounds.
A few doors down, The Deck is a tailor that caters exclusively to women and has driven change by becoming the first B Corp-certified company on the street.
The brand has a store at No. 32 Savile Row, an airy shop that spans 2,000 square feet with De Gournay wallpaper hand-embroidered flower, bird and butterfly appliqués.
“For so long, men have been able to enjoy the powerful feeling that a made-to-measure suit brings, but for some reason women were forgotten. At The Deck, we offer our customers a chance to invest in something made entirely to their measurements with their choice of cloth, lining, buttons and monogramming,” said Daisy Knatchbull, The Deck’s founder and a Huntsman alum.
At Net-a-porter, searches for women’s tailoring increased by 475 percent in the last three months, with suit searches increasing 146 percent in the same period.
The retailer is continuing to offer more traditional tailoring from the likes of Alexander McQueen and Altuzarra.
“Kamala Harris’ humble tailoring wardrobe will certainly have something to do with the increase in searches and attention that’s been turned to tailoring in the last few months,” said Libby Page, market director at Net-a-porter.
“Tailoring is a symbol of empowerment for women and the evolution reflects a rising societal shift toward women feeling more confident and powerful,” Camilla and Marc’s creative director Camilla Freeman-Topper agreed.
The same boom is also taking place on the shop floor at Harrods.
“We have seen an increase in women’s tailoring across all parts of their wardrobe. The most significant increases have been for events such as weddings and parties. We have seen a big demand for waistcoats, tailored skirts, jackets and trousers,” said Poppy Lomax, head of superbrands and international designer at the retailer.
The proof is in the numbers for a number of brands.
At Sunspel, women’s tailoring has increased by 103 percent since the brand introduced blazers and front pleat trousers.
For fall 2024, Sunspel is bringing out silhouettes in soft merino fabrics and jersey, as well as reintroducing skirts.
“What’s making women’s tailoring more relevant is the way it is now being styled. The casualization of women’s tailoring, pairing it with T-shirts, tops and lightweight knits, has made it an effortless look that now fits into everyday dressing,” said Raul Verdicchi, chief executive officer of Sunspel.
With Nothing Underneath, the women’s shirting brand favored by Meghan Markle, their next expansion is into tailored trousers.
The brand saw its revenue grow by more than 80 percent this year and 300 percent since 2022.
“Borrowing from the boys is not a new concept, but with menswear having always dominated the tailoring scene, customers are now looking for that same impeccable tailoring, but made with women’s form in mind,” said Pip Durell, the brand’s founder and CEO.
The brand has kept its shirt buttons on the right side as a nod to men’s shirts.
Durell lists Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, Jane Brikin and Charlotte Rampling as muses for the brand. With Nothing Underneath’s new tailored trousers, for example, are named The Rampling.
Adding more masculine tailoring touches, the brand has experienced success with its embroidery service introduced two years ago.
“With the increased demand we now have an embroidery machine in our Belgravia store to allow for same-day monogramming,” Durell said.
London Fashion Week designer Huishan Zhang has impressively built on the tailoring category.
Tailoring and separates now make up 30 percent of his business, with the former being the brand’s fastest-growing arm.
Zhang’s approach to tailoring isn’t just about the detailing of the lining or the trouser belt loops, it’s also paying attention to the outside. He offers faux leather suits; satin blazers with embellished tulle; skirt suits; blazers made from Neoprene, and tailored jackets with taffeta detailing.
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