Weekend Getaway: Where to Stay, Eat, and Drink In Carmel-by-the Sea, California
Thanks to the hit HBO series Big Little Lies, Monterey, California and its nearby rugged coastline is more popular than ever with travelers. But the small beach town of Carmel-by-the-Sea, just a 15 minute drive from Monterey's historic Fisherman's Wharf, has been an iconic attraction for decades.
Nestled in Northern California just a couple hours south of San Francisco and San Jose, Carmel offers all the fun and entertainment of those bigger cities to the north, but with way more charm. With a population just under 4,000, the town's architecture literally looks like something out of a storybook, and the community is exceptionally welcoming (to people and pets).
Carmel-by-the-Sea and the nearby Carmel Valley and Carmel Highlands are beautiful year-round, but late summer is an exceptionally lovely time to go. The town is situated along the famously stunning Highway 1, which runs along the Pacific Coast and recently reopened in the Big Sur area after a massive mudslide in 2017. Translation: Travelers can once again ride along the breathtaking coastline without any interruptions.
Stay for a week or stay for just a couple of days — in Carmel, it doesn't matter: You'll leave the town feeling refreshed, invigorated, and downright inspired.
Getting There:
Taking Highway 1 from San Francisco Airport to Carmel isn't the most direct route, but if you're feeling adventurous and love a good coastline view, it's definitely worth it. My BFF and I made the two-hour drive in a Chevy Bolt EV, and take it from two New Yorkers who literally NEVER drive: This car made us feel extremely comfortable. The roads are curvy and, if you're unfamiliar with the area, switching lanes can be stressful, so having a car like the Bolt EV — which has a lane change alert feature and a side blind-zone alert — was incredibly helpful.
Also, we had never driven an all-electric car before, so we were happy to find that this vehicle gets 238 miles out of each charge, meaning we could make the trip in one shot and just charge it overnight. We didn't even drive directly to our hotel from the airport — we stopped at the iconic Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk along the way. (Which, by the way, is a stop I suggest you make too.)
Where to Stay:
There are quite a few magical places to stay in Carmel (in a town filled with adorable homes and gorgeous old buildings, it's hard to go wrong), but we landed at the Bernardus Lodge & Spa in Carmel Valley. When we arrived, we were greeted with a glass of white wine (we were surrounded by vineyards, after all!) and breathtaking views.
The 28-acre estate has its own organic herb and vegetable gardens, vineyards, and fruit trees, which meant that the food at the on-site restaurant was some of the freshest I've ever had. "Service was outstanding, the restaurant excellent, and the setting idyllic," one person wrote on TripAdvisor, and I couldn't agree more.
What to Eat:
Breakfast: If your hotel offers breakfast, you should definitely take advantage, so you can splurge on lunch and dinner. But if you can't skip your morning meal, Lafayette Bakery and Cafe is a must, according to TripAdvisor reviews.
Lunch: Head to The Terrace Lounge at Pebble Beach, which overlooks the 18th hole at the world-famous golf course. My advice: Order the open-face lobster sandwich and you won't regret it.
Dinner: If you're not shacking up at Bernardus Lodge, definitely go there for dinner one night. The Lucia restaurant is farm-to-table style, and everything from the lobster basil soup to the diver scallops is cooked to perfection.
What to Do:
Folktale Winery: Visiting a winery is non-negotiable and Folktale in Carmel Valley is stunning. In addition to great wine, you'll also find great food — and it makes for the perfect California photo.
17-Mile Drive and Pebble Beach: Unless you plan to bike the 17 miles, you'll need a car. I found the Bolt's remote keyless entry ideal for popping in and out while making so many stops along the way. Beware, the roads are windy, but a stop at the Lone Cypress makes it all worth it.
Point Lobos: Reviews on TripAdvisor rave about this nature reserve. Perfect for anyone looking for an easy hike on a sunny day.
Carmel Mission Basilica: The Catholic church was first built in 1797 and has been completely restored to its original glory. It's now a National Historic Landmark.
Carmel Plaza: If you need a shopping fix, head to Carmel Plaza, where you can find shops like Cole Haan, Kate Spade, and Sur la Table.
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