The Welsh version of Lands End to John o' Groats that nobody has heard of

There are some great travel pilgrimages where the very name captures the imagination. ‘Lands End to John o' Groats’, the ‘Camino de Santiago’ and ‘The Appalachian Trail’ evoke images of brave adventures, muddy fingernails and life-affirming encounters.

But there is a Welsh A to B which has failed to adopt the same folkloric status.

Maybe it’s the name. Apart from the 100,000-odd people who can speak Welsh, ‘L?n Las Cymru’ doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue (it’s ‘come-ree’ with a slight trill on the ‘r’). Perhaps it’s for the same reason that Kyrgyzstan, ?ód? and Tbilisi aren’t as popular as the likes of Paris, Berlin and Rome (perhaps…).

Pronounceable or not, the lack of attention the L?n Las Cymru receives is quite perplexing. I have cycled across Cuba, pedalled the length of France, tackled Lands End to John O’Groats, traversed the South Downs Way and rolled alongside the blue Danube, yet this humble Welsh route offers some of the finest climbs, quietest lanes and most brilliant views of the lot.

Here’s everything you need to know about the L?n Las Cymru.

When was the L?n Las Cymru born?

Loosely translating as ‘Wales’s Green Lane’, the L?n Las Cymru opened in 1996 as a combined effort between Sustrans and local councils. It may be pitched as a cycling route – much of it follows the National Cycle Route 8, and all the guidebooks are for pedallers – but there’s no reason why you couldn’t walk the route if you had time on your hands, and a sturdy pair of boots on your feet.

What is the route?

The L?n Las Cymru has two possible starting points, in Cardiff or Chepstow, and it finishes in Holyhead in Anglesey. Spanning 250 miles (400km), the route passes through the Brecon Beacons, the Black Mountains, the Cambrian Mountains of mid-Wales and the vast Snowdonia National Park in the north, before crossing the Menai Strait and rolling into Holyhead.

One of the main appeals of the L?n Las Cymru is that 80 miles of it (that’s just under a third) follows the disused railway lines that were absorbed into the National Cycle Network after many of the country’s rail routes were discontinued in the last century. The longest of these, the Taff Trail, runs for 55 miles from Cardiff to Brecon.

What are the highlights?

Where to begin? This is, first and foremost, an incredibly pleasant cycle, with verdant countryside, clean air, big skies and very few cars on the roads. Even in the height of summer, you won't be jostling for space with fellow cycling tourers like you will when doing Lands End to John o' Groats.

The landscape is varied, from winding hedge-rowed lanes of Anglesey to the magnificent Gospel Pass in the Black Mountains, to the quintessential valleys around Machynlleth. Along the way you will find pretty villages and interesting towns (Usk, Abergavenny, Chepstow) where you can enjoy a cuppa or a pint in a lively pub – in more remote boozers you'll notice the locals chattering away in Welsh.

One highlight is in the Dyfi Valley, where the Royal Air Force and US Air Force fighter jets fly at astonishing low levels. There are other things soaring overhead, too. While the most ubiquitous beasts you will encounter are sheep and cattle, you will often find yourself under the watchful eye of red kites and common buzzards.

How many days does it take?

This really comes down to whether you are tackling the L?n Las Cymru as a leisure trip, or as a head down, dropped-handlebar challenge.

If you’re racing against the clock, you could plausibly complete it in three days, although it’s much more pleasant to take your time to properly enjoy the landscape without rushing through. With a week, you could even incorporate some detours such as the 73-mile ‘Radnor Ring’ in mid-Wales, or perhaps spend a day in the Italianate village of Portmeirion.

How difficult is it?

This isn’t one for families with young children, nor is it ideal for first-time cyclists. The mountain ranges require a fair level of leg and lung fitness and, assuming you’ve got luggage in tow, experience riding on a bike loaded with panniers. If you can manage sixty or seventy miles over consecutive days with a fair few climbs, then you’ll be absolutely fine.

What to pack?

There aren’t many bike shops or garages en route, so pack everything you may need to repair and service your bike along the way. Be sure to pack cold-and wet-weather clothing, regardless of the season and the forecast; the Welsh mountains can be a relentless host, even in the height of summer.

While the route is well signposted (stick on NCN8 and you can’t go too wrong) the Cicerone guide is the most detailed and up-to-date standalone guidebook on the market and is worth picking up for its thorough practical information, while Sustrans has maps covering the north and south sections of the route.

What sort of bike should I use?

Best bet is to use a hybrid or touring bike, ideally with plenty of gears for the climbs. There are some unpaved sections so a road bike would need sturdy tyres, although there will be some sections (stony forestry tracks, for example) where you may have to take lengthy diversions to avoid risking punctures.

When to do it?

For the warmest, driest and longest days aim for May to August, with July probably the best all-rounder for weather. While the roads would be all yours, doing it between October and March wouldn't be very much fun at all – not least because many hostels and B&Bs will have packed up for the winter. On that note, be sure to organise your accommodation in good time as it tends to get booked up in peak season.

How do I get there?

Cardiff is easy to get to by train. Great Western Railway has trains from London and there are regional trains from Birmingham, Bristol, Crewe and Manchester. Chepstow has a station too, although you will need to change at Newport or Gloucester.

Holyhead is the terminus of the North Wales Coast line, with trains running roughly hourly; some go direct to London in 3 hours and 45 minutes. For both trips, be sure to book your bike onto the train in advance (free of charge).