Where to stay in Greece – the safest regions and places to avoid if you choose to travel
Quarantine-free travel was once again permitted to Greece on July 10, but worries are high that the country may follow Spain and France in being taken off the government's 'safe travel' list. As of August 17, coronavirus cases in the country surged to over 7,000, with the majority occuring solely this month.
Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis officially declared the tourist season open on 13 June and lockdown restrictions largely ended in late July. Rules allowing only six people to share a restaurant table were relaxed and the compulsory wearing of masks in shopping malls was lifted. Now, however, cases have surged with weddings and people ignoring social distancing thought to be behind the spikes. In response, a temporary 50-person limit on public gatherings was announced on Friday, while restaurants and bars must close by midnight in Athens and other parts of the country including Mykonos, Crete, Paros, Kos, Santorini, Rhodes and Zakynthos.
While in July, Greek Tourism Minister Harry Theoharis stated that the recent spike of detected cases was to be expected as “this demonstrates that the operational plan and the controls carried out at the borders are effective,” this may not wash with the UK government, which has a quarantine threshold of 20 cases per 100,000 people in a week.
Despite the worries, it is still possible to travel to Greece, and thousands of UK holidaymakers are currently in the country. Flights from the UK – including those from EASA’s list of high risk airports – were allowed to enter Greece from July 15. UK visitors no longer face quarantine, unless they display signs of having the virus, but since July 9 all visitors to Greece should fill in the PLF (Passenger Locator Form) 24 hours before travelling.
Anyone entering Greece via the Promachonas border-crossing must also be able to show a negative Covid-19 test, due to a surge of new cases recorded amongst travellers in July.
Those choosing to travel to Greece should make travel plans with flexible cancellation policies and keep a close eye on FCO advice, which is subject to change. In the unlikely event that visitors test positive for Covid-19, Greece will cover the cost of accommodation, food, drink and medical treatment.
? Can I travel to Greece? See the latest advice
Government guidelines may change rapidly and without warning; be sure to check the latest FCO advice before booking and/or travelling to any destination.
Where to stay:
1. Crete
Crete is one of the islands currently affected by Greece's new rules, with bars and restaurants ordered to close by midnight. New coronavirus cases have been registered on the island during the recent spike, but these are concentrated in the capital, Heraklion and the city of Chania. With only some 40 cases, however, Crete is still perceived as a safe destination, and Greece's largest island, known for its philoxenia (hospitality), still has countless off-the-beaten-track regions, along with secluded hotels and resorts where it’s possible to holiday in isolation.
Crete’s picturesque western half, stretching from Heraklion to Chania’s Venetian port, tends to attract most visitors. To escape the crowds, follow winding roads inland to explore mountain villages such as Elos, famed for is annual chestnut festival, Zaros with its bubbling mineral water springs, or the village of Archanes whose vineyards produce some of the island’s best wines.
Alternatively, head east from Agios Nikolaos to discover the low-key coastal resorts of Elounda, Mochlos or far flung Makrigialos.
? An expert travel guide to Crete
2. Santorini
Before the pandemic, visiting this spectacular volcanic atoll without being elbow-to-elbow with tourists from around the globe was impossible. “There will probably not be any cruises and definitely fewer visitors this summer, so this will offer visitors the very rare opportunity to discover another side of our island – to have the thrill of visiting Santorini without the crowds,” says Nikos Boutsinis, whose eco-friendly company Santorini Walking Tours operates small group excursions to explore the island’s – rarely used – goat tracks and hiking trails.
This Cycladian Island, whose traditional villages tumble like white lava along the caldera’s flanks, also has plenty of secluded luxury hotels with suites and villas – many with private pools – that are ideal for a secluded stay.“Of course people do flock to Santorini to see a sunset in Oia, but this year the village will only be accessible to hotel residents,” Nikos says.
? The best hotels in Santorini
3. Naxos
Despite having some of Greece’s best sandy beaches – including endless kilometres of soft sand and secluded coves stretching from the lively resort of ágios Prokópios to the laidback village of Agiassos – this sprawling island sees surprisingly little tourism, even in the height of summer.
Social distancing should be a piece of cake on this lush island which is a 40-minute ferry hop from Paros: the 5th-century BC Temple of Delian Apollo, celebrated Kouroi near Melanes and other archaeological sites are rarely crowded – and even the capital Hora, with its Venetian Kastro fortress surrounded by a labyrinth of secret lanes, is generally peaceful. Note: if travelling via Paros, it is now prohibited to have more than nine people in any public gathering, and it is mandatory to wear masks when outside of residences.
If you really want to live in glorious isolation follow a bumpy track to the silk sand beaches of Mikri Vigla, which is one of the island’s remotest resorts.
4. Halkidiki
An hour’s drive south east of Thessaloniki, Halkidiki thrusts three, forest-cloaked digits into pristine seas which are fringed by a scattering of low-key resorts where the murmur of crickets is generally louder than the hum of conversation.
Kassandra, the westernmost peninsula, has the busiest beaches and nightlife, whilst Sithonia (the middle peninsula) has a string of traditional villages and a smattering of exclusive resorts scattered along an extensive coastline dotted with secluded coves. Birthplace of philosopher Aristotle, Halkidiki is also home to Athos, the Holy Mountain which sits on Halkidiki’s easternmost peninsula.
This autonomous isthmus shelters a unique collection of Unesco-listed monasteries inhabited by monks from Greece and around the world. Although women aren’t allowed inside this male-only complex, it’s possible to get a close up glimpse of the main monasteries on a boat tour.
? The best hotels in Halkidiki
5. The Mani
The five-fingered Peloponnese peninsula, framed by snow-capped mountains and connected to the Greek mainland by the Isthmus of Corinth, is one of Greece’s most remote regions. The central Mani ‘finger’, which was only accessible by boat until the 1970s when a road was finally blasted through the mighty Taygetus mountains, is remoter still. Even today this wild and mountainous province studded with stone towers is several hours drive from the nearest airport at Kalamata, making it perfect for that get-away-from-it-all holiday.
To get the best out of this unspoilt region, hire a car, then meander along narrow roads to visit the house of writer and war hero Patrick Leigh Fermor in the coastal village of Kardamyli; stroll out to see the abandoned stone towers of Vathia village, then relax far from the crowds in Gerolimenas, a tiny fishing village with a cluster of traditional tavernas at the very tip of the stony Mani peninsula.
? The best hotels in the Peloponnese
Where you should avoid for now:
Though much focus has been placed on Greece's islands, which are most beloved by tourists, the majority of Covid cases - including those in the recent spike - have been in Athens and the country’s second largest city Thessaloniki. On Sunday, August 16, 217 new infections were registered in Greece: 40 cases were in Athens and 37 in Thessaloniki.
Evia, a two-hour drive from Athens, is the only island that has had a significant number of Covid-19 cases – there have also been several in the country’s refugee camps on Lesvos and on the mainland, which are currently in lockdown.
The majority of cases have been centred around specific events and restaurants. On Sunday nine cases were traced to a restaurant in Cyclades. Greek authorities closed a beach bar on Mykonos after seven employees tested positive for the virus, and earlier this month 18 cases in Evros were all connected to a wedding in Alexandroupolis.
