Why it's time to dust off your polo neck

I can still recall the precise moment when the polo neck sweater, having spent decades in the style doldrums (I’m looking at you, Jerry Leadbetter), reclaimed its place in the “cool” corner of men’s fashion.

It was when the posters for the 24th James Bond film appeared in 2015, featuring Daniel Craig, brooding and buff in a black N Peal polo neck, accessorised with brown leather gun holster, the word “Spectre” emblazoned across his torso.

It was a nod to Bonds past – Roger Moore, Sean Connery and George Lazenby had all been members of the polo set – but its re-emergence on the 21st century spy confirmed once again that this garment could be dynamic and sexy. Since then, its evolution as a more sophisticated knitwear option continues, aided by the fact that the traditional kit and caboodle of a suit – a starched shirt and smart tie – is no longer a prerequisite.

Cherwell sweater ￡75,  John Smedley

Instead, the polo neck has proved itself an admirable smart-dress alternative when worn with a smart jacket or tuxedo, with options everywhere, from the Prada and Gucci catwalks to the high street.

Not everyone is on board. Perhaps those soppy, suburban Seventies connotations are too ingrained – which is ironic, since the polo neck began life in medieval times to protect necks against chain mail chafing. Proof, if it were needed, that this is a sweater for action men (exhibit A: Steve McQueen in Bullitt) and rebels (such as Andy Warhol and countless cool Sixties singers).

For a more modern take, check out Manchester City manager Pep Guardiola, whose black and grey polo necks are an essential part of his monochrome touchline wardrobe.

Sandro sweater ￡205, Mr Porter; Cotton sweater ￡119, Hugo Boss 

The polo neck comes in two varieties, heavy-duty and fine. While the former is suitably substantial for winter weather, the latter is an easy everyday autumn piece, in a fine gauge wool or cashmere to allow for a more lightweight, streamlined effect, easily paired with a smart jacket. Shoulder holster optional.

Tracking the trend

Early years

The polo neck had bubbled away in the style landscape for decades – some say it has its origins in Elizabethan ruffs – but it came into its own during cinema’s golden years as rugged heroic outerwear, sported by stars from Errol Flynn in the Thirties to Robert Redford in the Sixties.

Beat generation

Sixties counterculture pioneers – including the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Bob Dylan and Andy Warhol – adopted a slimmed down polo neck to accentuate their cool, minimalist aesthetic.

Beyond Bond

A smart and flattering alternative to shirts and ties for modern-day action men, the polo neck is a core part of football manager Pep Guardiola’s match-day attire.

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