Why Black-Owned Brands Face an Added Responsibility in the Beauty Industry
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When my mother’s water broke, she didn’t panic, nor did she immediately head to the hospital. Instead, she sat at her vanity and began to carefully apply her Fashion Fair makeup (at the time, one of the few options available to Black women). For my mom, looking her best was not just a sense of pride or a form of self-expression, but an obligation in America. My mother is from Trinidad and Tobago—twin Caribbean islands where most of the demographic comprises individuals of Black, Indian, and Chinese descent. Her experience with white superiority and racism wasn’t absolved, but it does differ from my experience in the United States. Though colorism is strong in the Caribbean, when Trinidad liberated from England in 1962, they elected their first prime minister, a Black man named Eric Williams.
Upon immigrating to the United States—the same day that America landed on the moon—my mother was introduced to the nuances of racism and the complexities of Black beauty. In a time and place where wearing an afro competing to touch the sun was a revolutionary act, she was faced with a decision that permeates those of African descent and immigrants across the globe - to assimilate or not? For survival, my mother traded her soft, beautiful 4a curls for a relaxed, straight style that she often slicked into a tight bun for her 12 hour nursing shifts at Bronx Lebanon Hospital. Despite her two hour train commute each way, my mother would always ensure her hair and makeup were nicely done, even if that meant suffering scalp burns from relaxers and foregoing the luxury of hitting “snooze”. Despite her white nursing attire, patients mistook her for the janitor, not their caretaker. When she moved to Naples, Florida, and became the third Black nurse at Naples Community Hospital, several individuals refused to even allow her to care for them, despite the fact she was an award-winning nurse. “You always have to look the part,” she’d tell me under the heavy weight of expectations and racism fueling the notion that Black people are less than human—our natural hair deemed barbaric vs beautiful as it grows toward the sky.
Fast forward to 2024, and Black beauty, while more celebrated, is still under attack. Laws like the Crown Act strive to protect Black Americans from discrimination but still fall short because of institutional racism. Foundations and concealers are still not representative of the U.S. population. Yes, pigmented products can be used by all—application processes, depending on skin tone, may vary. A crucial part of allyship is decentering yourself and understanding that Western standards deeply affect product offerings and availability within the industry.
In 2020, George Floyd’s murder shone a spotlight on the indecencies toward Black people, trickling down to the beauty industry, highlighting its own inequalities. The roundups of “Black-owned brands to support” ran rampant across publications, the 15% Pledge was born. Nevertheless, I find there’s a disconnect when it comes to Black-owned beauty brands, largely that they are only for Black people. Washing your hair, putting on your makeup, and a solid skincare routine isn’t a segregated experience. So why do we often segregate Black-owned products? Urban Hydration’s algae face wash will work just as well on your skin as it does mine; as seen during the Maison Margiela show, Pat McGrath Labs makes everyone look like art. Black-owned brands carry an additional responsibility that white-owned brands don’t. That responsibility is reflected in creating space in an environment that largely ignores Blackness. This shows up in marketing campaigns and shade offerings, but at the end of the day, they are making products for human beings.
As Black History Month comes to a close, I encourage allies to the Black community to shop Black and make a Black-owned product a staple in your beauty routine. If you don’t know where to start, keep reading. Ahead are several of my current favorite Black-owned products that are in my rotation. Remember that support is continuous and allyship is a verb.
The Body Shot
Daily cleansing towels for down-there and everywhere! Simply add water to thoroughly refresh all of your cracks and crevices. While it’s designed for intimate areas (and you can substitute water for your favorite feminine wash), you can use it all over. It’s the perfect refresher post-gym workout when a quick shower just isn’t in the cards.
Bare-Skin Confidence Brightening Trio
Fight stubborn hyperpigmentation with this trio of products resulting in brighter, healthier skin. This no-frills, three-step routine takes the guesswork out of dark spots and will leave you with clear, happy skin.
Sea Acne Gone & Sea The Glow Algae Face Mask Stick
Often, clay masks can be messy and time consuming. Urban Hydration took the mess out of clay masks with this convenient face mask stick. Simply wash and pat dry your face and apply the mask. The stick facilitates the application process and makes self-care easy to do on the go.
Yummy Skin Mattifying Water Powder Serum
Danessa Myricks' latest launch is for all the oily girls. The water powder serum contains kaolin clay to absorb excess sebum, tremella mushroom extract to deliver hydration to your skin, and niacinamide to minimize pores and brighten your skin. It’s the perfect prep before applying makeup.
Skin-Enhancing Lightweight & Blurring Foundation Stick
ELLE Beauty is obsessed with this foundation stick, and once you try it, you’ll understand why. The formula melts into your skin, leaving you looking effortlessly fresh-faced and even-toned. You can read our review, here.
ChromaLuxe Artistry Pigment
Pat McGrath tested her new ChromaLuxe shades on Nicki Minaj for her Pink Friday 2 visuals. If you want to look like a resident of Gag City, this lavender shade with shimmer is just for you.
Gardener Knauft’s Bath Bar
Take the irritation out of shower time and soothe your skin with these soap bars. The soap excludes essential oils, synthetic additives, and toxic chemicals, so even those with the most sensitive of skin (or even suffering from eczema) can make shower time fun again.
UV Vegan Mascara
Colored mascara is currently trending—but if you want to take your look to the next level, then opt for this UV vegan mascara by celebrity makeup artist Ashunta Sheriff. It's like a rave for your eyelashes.
Hyaluronic & Vitamin C Cleansing Shave Cream
Dry skin can easily cause flaking or for men to knick their faces when they shave. This thoughtful shaving cream formulation cleanses the skin, fights inflammation, and delivers hydration. Formulated with hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C, and grapeseed oil, yes, you best believe I used this on my legs—which were incredibly soft post shower.
XO
When Kitaya Mischo King was pregnant with her first child, she couldn’t find a chip-resistant polish with safe ingredients, so she spent two years creating her own. Now Mischa Beauty is available to all ingredient-conscious nail polish lovers. Try XO, a milky orange that is perfect for Spring.
Unscented Shea Butter Lotion Stick
It’s winter, which means we’re all at risk of looking ashy. Mitigate that experience and throw this ‘stick of butter’ in your bag. Basically, it’s body butter in stick form. Created with 100% natural shea butter, it swiftly sinks into the skin, leaving you hydrated and not greasy. It’s my new travel companion!
Wickless Candles
A close friend of mine who loves home fragrance recently had a baby. In an attempt to further “baby-proof” her house, she’s sworn off candles, much to her dismay. I found these wickless candles at The Good Life Summit, a conference hosted by Urban Hydration. Because they are wickless, the founder, a Black woman, could add dried flowers and herbs, creating some delightful scents. I like to keep ‘Honey Orange’ in my guest bathroom and turn on the burner right before my friends arrive.
Peptide Wrinkle Relaxing Moisturizer
There are skincare founders and cosmetic chemists who are skincare founders—Ron Robinson lands in the latter group and is the brains behind the science-backed beauty brand BeautyStat. I love several of their products, but their newest release, a Peptide Wrinkle Relaxing Moisturizer, left my skin feeling oh so smooth.
Cake Batter
Pound Cake Cosmetics is taking the intimidation out of wearing red lipstick. If you’ve been more shy regarding the color, consider one of their six red lip shades, created by women of color chemists and tested by trusted makeup artists. I’m confident there is a red shade for you.
Josephine Eau de Parfum
As a Harlem resident, I love supporting brands founded in the neighborhood. This historically Black neighborhood has a rich history. Harlem Candle Co. created Josephine, a flirtatious amber scent that takes on the spirit of Josephine Baker in aroma form.
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