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Southern Living

Why Duke’s Mayonnaise Has A Loyal Southern Following

Sheri Castle
4 min read

We say mayonnaise, by which we mean Duke's.

A hundred years ago, an enterprising woman named Eugenia Duke started selling sandwiches made with her homemade mayonnaise to soldiers stationed near Greenville, South Carolina. By 1919 she was selling over 10,000 sandwiches a day, making her a successful and profitable entrepreneur in an era when women had little leverage in the business world. But that pales in comparison to her eventual legacy that was set into motion when she sold her recipes to C.F. Sauer in 1929, the person who established the first Duke's mayonnaise factory and sent the product out into our world. Here's why the recipe has created fans across the South.

Courtesy of Duke's Mayonnaise
Courtesy of Duke's Mayonnaise

What's Different About Duke's Mayonnaise

It's not news that most Southern cooks and eaters are fiercely loyal to our Duke's. It's a matter of taste and decorum. Duke's mayonnaise remains sugar-free, which is rare among bottled condiments these days. (It wasn't necessarily a stroke of culinary genius to leave her mayo unsweetened—although it was—so much as a practical response to sugar rationing during the war.) Duke's contains a higher ratio of egg yolks than most other commercial mayos, which makes it rich, creamy, and less likely to separate when heated. There's a wisp of tang from vinegar and a touch of paprika. Its texture is thicker and almost custard-like instead of simply slick or gelatinous. All of this makes Duke's look and taste more like homemade mayonnaise, a wonderful thing that is quite tedious to perfect.

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Duke's is the brand that many of us Southerners grew up on, so it's the mayo that tastes like what we expect and crave. Most food memories of this caliber require the replication of a prized family recipe. Duke's requires only the twist of that signature bright yellow lid. Each new jar is a fresh start full of promise, a legacy, and luxury for about five bucks a pop.

How to Use Duke's Mayonnaise

Southerners have particular skill and proclivity in using Duke's as not only a condiment and sauce, but also as an ingredient in all sorts of iconic Southern recipes, such as chocolate cake, pimiento cheese, deviled eggs, coleslaw, and potato salad. Ah, the salads. So many salads. The range of recipes that some Southerners call salads is curious and contentious in that not all of them contain raw vegetables, or any vegetables at all for that matter. But if you define a Southern salad as a concept on a sliding scale, then Duke's is the perfect thing to grease the skids.

If you’re a mayonnaise lover, you may find yourself reaching for this creamy sandwich spread often. Beyond two slices of bread, here’s what else you can do with a jar of Duke’s:

  • Holiday Casserole: Just one-fourth cup of mayo adds creaminess to Easy Squash Casserole without making it runny.

  • Grilled Cheese: Yes, this is a sandwich, but here the mayo isn’t slathered between the slices. Spread it on the outside of your grilled cheese to get a crisp, golden exterior.

  • Barbecue Sauce: Mayonnaise may not be the first ingredient to come to mind when you think of barbecue sauce, but Alabama White Sauce will change that.

  • Mexican Corn: Top grilled corn on the cob with a creamy, spicy sauce made with mayonnaise.

  • Macaroni and Cheese: Update your mac and cheese. A generous amount of mayonnaise is the secret to making this Southern classic extra creamy.

How Fans Pay Tribute to Duke's Mayonnaise

Duke's mayonnaise has inspired art, poetry, essays, scholarly treatises, lectures, and quarrels with those who prefer Hellmann's, Blue Plate, or (shudder) Miracle Whip. Emily Wallace, a Southern food scholar who knows her Duke's, tells of a woman so loyal that she beseeched Sauer to send her three of the glass quart jars when word got around that they were switching to plastic bottles. Her intent, if not her final wish, was to have three jars (with labels intact) so that each of her daughters could have one to store a portion of her ashes once she had passed on to her reward. Surely to goodness someone congealed a salad to serve with a dollop of Duke's at that dear woman's wake.

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Thank you kindly, Ms. Eugenia, for bestowing Duke's mayonnaise on us, the spread that binds countless Southern recipes and graces more 'mater sandwiches than there are stars in the heavens.

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Read the original article on Southern Living.

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