Is this Yorkshire's most romantic hotel spa?
I smeared a big clump of cloud-grey mud across my partner's face, enjoying how it distorted his features as I stroked the earthy mixture into every contour. A lump of mud slid down his chin and dropped onto his arm, which he playfully flicked at me. Our sniggers echoed off the walls of the bath chamber. It wasn't even 11am and we were already revelling in each other's company.
We were at Rudding Park's spa – somewhere I've been keen to visit since its opening in May 2017 after a whopping ￡9.5m cash injection and 12 years of planning. I was eager to experience its new Rooftop Spa and Garden (the latter of which was designed by horticulturalist Matthew Wilson, a frequent panellist on BBC Radio 4's Gardener’s Question Time), innovative treatments and state-of-the-art facilities, which have already seen it win multiple awards and named of the best spas in the country.
Of course, Harrogate has long been on the map for its spa credentials. A few miles from this beautiful four-star country house hotel are the city's Turkish Baths, which attracted Victorians from far and wide to sample the sulphuric waters from the wells, which are said to have healing properties. The 2,000-acre Rudding Park estate even has its own borehole that feeds the spring water to the spa.
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The rooftop spa and garden is a playground for adults. In one corner is a panoramic sauna, with views onto the glorious outdoor hydrotherapy pool with an array of massage jets for the feet, neck, legs and back; and in another, an ice fountain, shower and herbal steam room. Outside, despite looking unfinished and a bit sad in winter, there's a sunken whirlpool bath and another sauna cabin with big windows (from where you can wave to guests in the nearby rooms!).
I admit: I'd never heard of a Rasul Mud Ritual before. The traditional Moorish technique uses heat and steam to allow your body to absorb the clay's nutrients. We entered a private chamber, big enough for four people – incase you, er, wanted to bring your friends along – and were brought three bowls of different mud for the face, torso and legs. You only get 10 minutes to slather each other all over before the steam starts – which we did rather frantically with just seconds to spare.
We then headed over to the treatment centre for our 50-minute Antioxidant Booster Ritual treatments. As I lay face-down on the bed, my therapist, Julia, exfoliated from toes to neck, with a turmeric-infused Salt Of The Earth Body Scrub, said to be renowned for its antioxidant-inducing benefits, followed by a deep cleansing kaolin mask and lymphatic drainage massage. The Fire body and bath oil selected for me brought me back to life. Post-massage Kombucha cordial in hand, I floated off to find a relaxation room.
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Relaxation rooms here are sensorial. 'Visual' has a large mood screen, 'Relax' is a darker room with twinkling ceiling lights to emulate stars, 'Audio' was all about flicking through a magazine while listening to meditation tracks on a pre-loaded iPod, and 'Mind', the most sociable, had colouring books and puzzles.
Why do spas make you feel so hungry? After my cleanse, all I wanted to do was stuff myself with vegetables. Horto, the hotel's three-AA-Rosette restaurant by night and smart café by day, has become something of a hit with the local foodie set. Chef Murray Wilson helms the rank using produce from the award-winning kitchen garden. Expect lots of hearty salads and delectable puddings for lunch. I particularly enjoyed the oak-smoked salmon with potato rosti and fennel salad, but be warned that mains are pricey at ￡21.
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The room itself feels fresh; a windowed wall that opens onto the terrace, bay seating with forest-green velvety fabrics contrasted with mustard yellows and the odd floral-patterned chair. Graffiti-style drawings weaved into the wall hangings evoke a sense of Horto's former days as a pop-up restaurant. Dinner the evening before was quite a different scene. Although I was surprised at how quiet the restaurant was, I was swept away by the modernist-method tasting menu (which you're encouraged not to look at) and our wonderful 21-year-old sommelier, James, who's understanding of wine was inspired.
We spent the rest of the day tottering about in our fluffy dressing gowns and flip flops. Highlight? The outdoor hydrotherapy pool – we could have stayed there for hours come rain or shine. But if you're after something fun and flirty to do with your partner, go 50 shades of clay and head to the Rasul Mud Bath.
Double rooms from ￡189. One-night half-board spa break from ￡177 per person, including 50-minute treatment and access to the spa. Access to the Roof Top Spa and Garden is ￡35 for two hours. Mud Rasul Ritual costs from ￡15 per guest; and ￡30 per non-guest, with access to the indoor swimming pool, juniper log sauna and bucket shower for one hour (advance booking required).
Read the full review: Rudding Park Hotel & Spa, Harrogate