A close encounter with a camel at the Alila Fort Bishangarh, Rajasthan
Lelaram looked at me with such an air of regality I felt like he was keeping a secret. Nose to the sky, he stared down at me from the corner of one eye. Snorty, smelly and spitty had been the first words that came to mind when imagining this moment, but his elegant posture, dastardly long eyelashes and colourful outfit only added to my thoughts: I had never realised camels could be so....dashing.
Thwack! The tail had almost claimed a nose – thwack! – there it was again. I burst into laughter at my friend’s astonishment as he jumped back. “What did you just do?” I asked him. “Nothing,” he replied unconvincingly, “I just patted its backside.” Looking from him to the camel, I imagined the creature’s irritation at such an uninvited gesture, and praised its quick reaction. Good for you, I thought, I probably would have done the same.
? The best hotels in Rajasthan
We set off, my three companions and I sitting stiffly on a fancy cart being pulled by Lelaram. As we clopped slowly through Bishangarh, a small village at the foot of the dusky-pink fort we were staying in, children trotted alongside us, women smiled, and gatherings of men huddled around around big pots of bubbling chai stared. I was beside myself with giggles, the infectious kind that comes in waves and makes your eyes stream: we looked ridiculous.
Ridiculous nonetheless, our stylish jaunt circling the newly opened Alila Fort Bishangarh was interesting. It took seven years to refurbish the dilapidated 18th-century building which was overrun with monkeys and birds, and its history spans 230 years, back to a time when Maharajas and Rajputs used it as a warrior fort. Now this highly-polished, five-star hotel marries history with modern luxury seamlessly, as per the understated elegance of the Alila brand.
? Read the full review: Alila Fort Bishangarh, Rajasthan
Inside, low-lit, glossy corridors give way to airy, minimalist bedrooms. Public spaces are an appealing display of British and Mughal architecture punctuated with original artefacts in every nook and cranny. But aesthetics aside, the hotel is open to guests seeking more than just a beach-side resort. The brand works closely with local communities and is careful to involve the village as much as possible.
We spent a wonderful morning visiting Daya and Ramautar Yadav and their family, who run a farm that grows a number of grains, herbs, spices and vegetables. We watched as the women cooked traditional Rajasthani dishes on a stove made from bricks and mud, ate millet bread with chilli chutney and drank fresh hand-churned buttermilk. It was a unique opportunity to see this side of village life.
Afterwards, visits to local artisans brought us to a jewellers, pottery and carpet weaver Gunita Devi, a widower with two sons who uses a traditional loom, cotton and wool to create the most beautiful rugs. Excursions extend to the adventurous, with hot air balloon rides, temple visits and even safaris; and there’s plenty to do at the hotel itself such as spa treatments, complimentary yoga and cookery classes that take you through the art of Indian cooking (highly recommended).
But Lelaram was definitely the highlight. It made sense to choose this trip, given Rajasthan’s history for hosting the world’s biggest camel trade shows every November. As we neared the end of our journey through Bishangarh village, collecting whoops and waves from passers-by, I looked back and realised we had an enormous procession following our cart.
I do hope the spirit of this colourful community doesn’t get lost in the shadow of such a majestic fort.
? The best hotels in Rajasthan
? Read the full review: Alila Fort Bishangarh, Rajasthan
Charlotte travelled as a guest with Cox & Kings, who offer a six-day/four-night trip to India, including three nights at Alila Fort Bishangarh, from ￡1,595. This includes a night in Delhi, an overnight flight and private road transfers (020 3642 0861; coxandkings.co.uk). The camel safari costs from 3,000 Indian Rupees (￡35), per couple.