'The proof is in the sauce': Joe Bellia takes the wheel at new restaurant Joe's La Roma
Salisbury was once a stranger to Italian cuisine. That was, of course, until Vinny Bellia came along.
Vinny, a man of Italian descent, had a hand in making Salisbury what it is today.
The doors of his namesake eatery – Vinny's La Roma – opened on Nov. 28, 1978, at 934 S. Salisbury Blvd. The business became a staple in the surrounding community before closing 37 years later on Dec. 31, 2015. Retirement, however, did not last long for the chipper businessman.
Now he is back and supporting his son, Joe, at Fruitland’s very own Joe’s La Roma, an elevated dining experience and spinoff, so to speak, of the original Vinny’s La Roma.
Joe, who is following in his father’s footsteps, could not be more grateful to have Vinny by his side as he embarks on his new business venture.
Vinny, now 71, spent most of his childhood growing up in the charming city of Carini on the island of Sicily, which lies just off the Italian coast. He moved to the United States at the age of 11 where, for many years, he and his family called Brooklyn, New York, home.
During their time in Brooklyn, Vinny’s father opened a handful of small pizzerias – namely Carnival Pizza, Rosedale Pizza and Jo Jo’s Pizza. Vinny grew up watching and learning from his father, later opening several of his own.
As many Italian immigrants, such as the Bellia family, flocked to “The Big Apple” – a wave of immigration which began in the 1860s – the city quickly became a hotbed for Italian restaurants, eateries and a myriad of other businesses.
“There’s no place like New York,” Joe, 49, said.
Over time, the Bellia family spearheaded countless successful businesses in New York. Yet, it wasn’t until Vinny’s father started making his way up and down the Eastern Shore as a traveling food distributor that the Bellia family discovered Salisbury, the vacant restaurant on Route 13, and the potential it held.
Altogether, the family shifted their attention from the bustling Brooklyn to the secluded Salisbury.
From Brooklyn to Salisbury: A culture shock
Vinny moved alongside of his wife and two children to the small, Eastern Shore town during the 1970s. Having come from Brooklyn, a big city teeming with life, it was a culture shock to Vinny, six-year-old Joe, and the rest of the Bellia family.
“35 years ago, there was nothing here at all. It was desolate,” Joe said of Salisbury. “I felt like I was in the middle of the desert.”
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When it first opened, Vinny's La Roma was more of a pizza and sub sandwich shop. However, over the years, it quickly transformed into a vibrant restaurant scene where Vinny’s Italian roots flourished.
Vinny introduced Salisbury to an array of Italian cuisine – most notably, popular dishes such as gnocchi, cavatelli, sausage rolls, fettucine alfredo and, naturally, pizza.
“They were waiting for something like this,” he said of his restaurant.
As Vinny cooked, Joe observed.
“I was kind of infatuated with them throwing the dough, watching them add the sauce and cheese, putting it in the oven and taking it out, cutting it up,” Joe said.
Apart from his fascination that started from a young age, Joe wanted nothing to do with his father’s business, he admitted. However, eventually, he stood on a pot turned upside down to wash dishes, and the rest was history.
“I was handed the wheel and ran with it,” he said.
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Yes, Vinny once wanted La Roma to fail, and here's why
In the beginning, Vinny confessed, he wanted his restaurant to fail.
“Speaking sincerely, I didn’t want it to succeed because I wanted to go back to New York,” he said of Vinny’s La Roma. “The more I said that the busier I got. So, we decided to stay.”
Soon, Vinny was no longer just a businessman but a vital part of the Eastern Shore community.
“He became the untitled Mayor of Salisbury,” said Joe.
“I’m an institution,” Vinny said with a thundering laugh.
Joe's La Roma: 'A place to see people and be seen'
Today, Joe is just as well-known as his father. People from near and far gather at Joe’s La Roma, located at 213B N Fruitland Blvd., for a taste of the past. It is a place, said Joe, “Where you go to be seen and see people.”
Joe’s La Roma celebrated its official grand opening on June 22.
That day, said Joe, there was a long line of customers streaming in and out the door. It was stressful, he said, but nothing short of amazing.
Joe’s happy place is his kitchen, hidden from hungry eyes, where he dishes up plate after plate of delectable Italian cuisine. Each dish is comprised of ingredients that come directly from Joe and Vinny's garden right outside.
During the summer season, the garden overflows with basil, peppers and tomatoes, all of which Joe gently tugs from the vine, carries inside, washes off and meticulously adds to each and every dish.
Many of Joe’s recipes may be familiar to his patrons, as they were previously used by Vinny himself.
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“He showed me a few times how to prepare a dish, then I cooked off of what he taught me,” said Joe of his father’s recipes.
“He learned really well,” added Vinny. “I didn’t have to do anything. He cooks just like me.”
As Joe cooks, Vinny now works the floor
"I always had my heart and mind set on this building," Joe shared. "This building started as an Italian restaurant, and we've brought it back to its original roots."
With Joe knee-deep in pasta, pizza and more in the kitchen, Vinny has laid claim to the restaurant floor where patrons dine, wine glasses clink, conversations flow and soft music drifts around the packed house.
“My father is like the ma?tre d', the greeter. He’s here making sure everyone’s having a good time,” Joe said. “Everyone wants to see him.”
Like Vinny, Joe’s business partner, Christopher Van Sant, can typically be found out front making sure everything is in tip-top shape and the service is running smoothly. Joe and Van Sant have known one another practically their whole lives.
"We made a decision that has altered both of our lives. We got the blessing to continue the La Roma legacy and for me, it was just a whole other level of, 'Oh my God, that's amazing,'" Van Sant said. "I was never a part of La Roma. I get to come in at 42-years-old and be a part of something that was done 37 years ago. I didn't do the heavy-lifting, I wasn't in there bussing the tables and washing the dishes. It's a gift for me to be a part of that legacy."
“Chris is a part of the La Roma family now. It’s a good three-headed monster,” Joe said of himself, his father, and friend, Van Sant.
La Roma has generations of fans: 'It's like family now'
Starting in October, Joe’s La Roma will be hosting a “Second Sunday Dinner” involving a pre-set five course meal on the second Sunday of every month. The meals will be sold out ahead of time, and a sign will display the dishes on deck leading up the event.
Joe's La Roma’s patrons are generational, and treated like family.
“They were kids, and now they have their kids, even grandkids. There are a lot of families that we share – that La Roma had – and have now come back here,” Joe said. “I like to refer to my customers as friends.”
“We’re like (the show) Cheers,” Vinny said. “It’s like family now.”
"You're not a number, you're not a statistic, you're not a dollar sign," Van Sant said of his customers.
“I want people to leave here satisfied and happy,” said Joe, adding with a laugh, “The proof is in the sauce.”
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La Roma family recipe
The following recipe was submitted by Vinny Bellia, owner of the former Vinny's La Roma.
Chicken Italiano with Angel Hair Pasta & Pesto Sauce
2 chicken breasts, 6 ounces each (cut into pieces)
1 cup green peppers
1 cup red peppers
1 cup mushrooms (sliced)
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup flour
Pesto Sauce
2 cups fresh basil leaves
1/4 cup pine nuts
2 large garlic cloves
3/4 cup fresh parmesean cheese
2/3 cup olive oil
How to cook:
The recipe makes two servings. Begin by mincing basil leaves for pesto sauce finely. Use mortar and crush to fine paste. Gradually add pine nuts and crush until smooth. Blend in cheese and oil while stirring constantly.
Sautee peppers and mushrooms and set aside. Coat chicken with flour, then cook in oil for 3 minutes on each side. Add peppers and mushrooms, then salt, pepper and stir. Add pesto sauce. Serve with angel hair pasta on the side.
Olivia Minzola covers communities on the Lower Shore. Contact her with tips and story ideas at [email protected].
This article originally appeared on Salisbury Daily Times: Viva La Roma! A visit to Joe Bellia's restaurant and tribute to Vinny
