24-Hours With the First Lady Michelle Obama in Japan

Michelle Obama in custom Altuzarra with Akie Abe, the wife of Japan’s Prime Minister. Photo: AP

Today was my first ever day in the White House Press Pool. I am here to cover phase one of Michelle Obama’s Asia tour that includes Japan and Cambodia, in support of creating equal access to education for the 62 million girls worldwide who are not in school. Let Girls Learn is the umbrella program name, and it is a mission that she is authentically passionate about.

The First Lady is in town to promote LGL and highlight collaboration between the Peace Corps and Japan’s Overseas Cooperation Volunteers. Japan is equally committed to the cause, and has committed 42 billion yen over three years toward girls’ education and empowerment.

Important and significant work to be sure, and something—in this crazy, mixed up world—that both countries can be proud of. But I know many of you are wondering: what’s it like to be in the White House Press Pool? And during an overseas state visit, to boot? Honestly. What does one do, and what does one wear? Over the course of the two day trip, the First Lady looked divine in a springy Kenzo dress and also a custom creation by New York-based designer Joseph Altuzarra. (The skirt suit that she wore on Thursday was made of the same Grenadine Floral Print that was spotted on a halter dress from the Spring/Summer 2015 Collection.)

The look from the Spring 2015 Altuzarra collection. Photo: Getty

But as for the rest of us? Here’s my best analogy, shared with great affection and respect through the lens of an unrepentant pop culture junkie: it’s The Newsroom meets The West Wing meets Homeland meets Veep meets Protocol meets Fashion Police meets a Michelle Phan video—starring the real Michelle Phan. Here’s an insider’s view.

Wednesday, March 18

2 pm: My 24-hour (well, technically 26) adventure following Michelle Obama’s first visit to Tokyo begins. The First Lady’s Advance Team person for Press—she’s 24, 6 feet tall, blonde and whip smart—meets us in the hotel lobby to take us to Haneda Airport for the “touchdown photo” op. In terms of the press pool we’ve been instructed to “wear flats and be prepared to run.” She of course is wearing cute ankle boots that make her 6’2.” Not fair.

3 pm: What started as a muggy day in Tokyo, has turned cool, windy and increasingly foggy. There is 98% humidity (so glad I got that blowout!). We arrive at a holding area adjacent to the runway, to begin the first of many hurry up and wait sessions. Security checks by Tokyo Police and Secret Service. And dogs. Before we move on to the next area, the agents escort about 12 Japanese cameramen, and three women, to a small building for a bathroom break. Four minutes later the ladies emerge and ALL the guys are standing there impatiently, with one saying: “Everyone has been waiting for you.” Somehow the entire US and Japanese delegations are staring at us and we’re being hurried along…to wait another 45 minutes on a windswept plain. (Note to self: restrict all liquids!)

4:15 pm: Then we get to stand on a riser - literally a flatbed truck on the tarmac so we’re above the motorcade when the passengers deplane. We are literally in the midst of a grocery store parking lot with 777s instead of SUVs rolling by us. And we wait. It is all of a sudden damp and freezing and I notice that pretty much every Japanese has pulled a Uniqlo packable down jacket out of their bag. They fold up into a tiny bag, weigh nothing and are essential. Meanwhile, below us, there is a Men’s Wearhouse commercial. A sea of guys in dark suits, pacing.

5 pm: At five o’clock on the dot, the First Lady’s plane arrives and pulls right up alongside us. I have to admit this is very cool, and yet seems totally normal after about three minutes. After the press and staff comes down, FLOTUS appears in the doorway. I rolled off my 14-hour flight looking like I’d been in a metal tube for 14 hours. She looked glorious. Chartreuse skirt suit (Kenzo Winter 2014 - or so the Internet tells me), big smile and absolutely worth waiting for. She waves, descends, chats with Japanese and US consular officials, then hops in her Suburban and the caravan follows. Three hours and 20 minutes for a five minute photo op. But gotta say, it was worth it.

At the discussion for Let Girls Learn with Mrs. Abe. Photo: Getty

Thursday, March 19

9 am: It’s cool and rainy. We start the day at a joint press event with Mrs. Obama, Mrs. Abe, the Japanese Prime Minister’s wife, and US Ambassador to Japan, Caroline Kennedy. The venue is packed with press, officials, and many young Japanese women, including students and Girl Scouts.

Because we are visiting the Emperor’s Palace later that day, we were all instructed to wear “dark colors and leather shoes.” Essentially the uniform for anyone in the Foreign Service. Oh, and the Ladies bathroom is closed. So at an event for hundreds of girls and women, the line for the Men’s room is epic. By 9:30 it has become #LetGirlsPee.

10 am: We’re invited out of our seats to observe the First Lady’s arrival and welcome from Mrs. Abe. Mrs. Abe is in a classic cream skirt suit, and Mrs. Obama in a red and white floral skirt suit by the aforementioned Altuzarra, silver heels, and pearls. Together they make for an impressive photo op with flags and cherry blossoms in the background. he extended Advance Team—more lovely young women who make a job of endless planning and constant improvisation look easy—are there to wrangle us. They live in black and navy separates, have insane hours, and managed to call out a few tried and true products that they have personally road-tested: Carmex, Batiste Dry Shampoo, Urban Decay Perversion mascara, tights from Target, every variety of black blazers and Nars Orgasm blush—a classic.

11-11:20 am: The pool is invited to observe the First Ladies discuss education with a group of young Japanese women. We’re a fishbowl in back, observing from behind a velvet rope. Not to mention: it’s a press pool comprised entirely of female reporters and male cameramen, we we were forever trying to grab shots from behind taller guys with huge cameras. At a certain point we just crouch down and shot from below I’ve been the only way to get a clean shot.

Behind the First Ladies and Ambassador Kennedy sit translators. And I notice, above all, how incredible Caroline Kennedy’s posture is, and what a discipline it is to sit up so straight for such a long time. Core strength anyone? I also noticed her black tote behind her chair—which seems to be the bag of choice for all of these ladies—big enough for files digital devices, chargers, a bottle of water, yet not so heavy that it makes one walk funny.

We exit and eat our box lunches in a holding area while we wait for the all clear for the Imperial Palace. Who do I run into there? My buddy Michelle Phan, also traveling as part of the Pool, and helping Mrs. Obama field questions from young girls around the country. In the past week she’s done New York, Austin, Texas for SXSW, and now Tokyo. She’s fresh as a daisy, and wearing major Louboutin peep toes, that look like both heaven and hell to those of us wearing flats.

Michelle shows us her 360 camera, her fleek (new word MP just taught us) phone with giant Leica lens, and answers a few if the 30,000 emails in her inbox. And her assistant completes a Snapchat story video of Michelle’s day thus far.

With the Prime Minister of Japan, Shinzo Abe. Photo: Getty

1:30 pm: Moving out, bound for the Imperial Palace for Mrs. Obama’s tea with Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko. Multiple bus changes are involved, as entering the private Imperial Palace grounds is an incredibly rare opportunity. More bag checks, roll calls, and nervous Japanese Consular officials—as well as our own Secret Service agent—wait for the signal allowing us to stand in the porte-cochere and await FLOTUS’ arrival.

It’s cold, and rainy, and about 55 people are standing around waiting to watch someone get out of a car and walk into a building. But we’re a collegial bunch who share umbrellas and swear on their lives that we will not take photos of the Empress and Emperor. “Taking photos of the royal family is not allowed. This is not a joke - this is very serious.” Yes, we understand. “I’m not kidding. I am being completely serious.” Got it. “No pictures. Cell phones off, please.” (Do we look untrustworthy for some reason?)

When the cars roll up the Emperor and Empress magically appear in their doorway to greet the First Lady. There is no way to describe them other then petite and ethereal. They are impeccable in every way, and were like very warm yet reserved grandparents. Mrs Obama observed every protocol while no doubt trying to appear not so much taller than her hosts.

3-4:30 pm: More buses, and then our final stop for the final meeting with President Abe. By this time everyone is exhilarated and exhausted. Our devices need recharging. We’re hungry. And frankly we’re ready to start back on fluids! The First Lady has a series of events ahead, but we will stop here. I don’t know how she does it!

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