So How Did Gucci's New Designer Do?
The first look from Gucci’s Fall 2015 womenswear collection under new designer Alessandro Michele. Photo: Getty Images
The Gucci Fall 2015 show was one of the most anticipated shows of the year. Ever since designer Alessandro Michele took the reigns as the brand’s new Creative Director back in January, re-designing the whole men’s collection in one week in the process, the fashion world’s only had one question in their minds, “what is he going to do?”.
It’s not surprising that Michele picked up where he left off with his menswear collection, after all, it was full of gender-bending clothes. It was a softer, more romantic approach, but one that was still dripping with quite a bit of sexuality, something that designer Tom Ford, who was Creative Director at Gucci from 1994 to 2004, was known for. Although it has been a decade since Ford was last at the house, there has always been something missing from subsequent collections under different creative designers. A spark, a bold statement, a direction; which is exactly what Michele delivered with his new collection.
A look from Gucci’s Fall 2015 collection. Photo: Getty Images
And so the female models walked down the runway in the slouchy suits and silk separates that their male counterparts did a few months before. It was a total shock to what has become the norm at the brand—fitted, lady-like separates in classic silhouettes. Instead we now have girls with loose, slightly disheveled hair, wearing oversized retro-glasses, and looking more like art students than philanthropists. The Gucci we once knew is out the window, and in its place is a hybrid of the classic Italian vibes from Prada and Marni, and the nouveau weird of J.W. Anderson. It is a wholly modern vision, and one that the house sorely needed.
A floral print dress from Gucci’s Fall 2015 collection. Photo: Getty Images
Michele, who is 42 years old, grew up with Ford’s vision of Gucci, so it makes sense that his influence was felt in this new collection. There was the look of a blue silk blouse, and low-slung belted trousers that immediately brought to mind the iconic image of Amber Valletta wearing a similar look in the Fall 1995 ad campaign. There was also plenty of nudity – a Ford specialty – although it seems less likely that Michele’s version will be found as offensive, after all, a bit of nipple mixed in with glasses, berets, and flat shoes means “art star,” and now “porn star.”
Of course, not all the pieces were odd-mans out in the collection, the flirty floral dresses would not have seemed out of place in previous collections, except they would’ve been worn with tight ponytails and 4-inch gold heels. When the pieces hit the stores, there will still be plenty to go around for both the classic Gucci customer, and the cool new girl looking to buy into that hippie/Margot Tennenbaum vibe.
A look from Gucci’s Fall 2015 collection. Photo: Getty Images
If what Gucci was looking for was a jolt of fresh air and a bit of youth, they certainly found it in Michele. Although the collection may shock some, this collection will surely become iconic in the storied label’s history. Pretty clothes can be a dime-a-dozen, but clothes that make you sit up and pay attention are the ones that cause waves. Gucci’s been treading water for too long, it’s about time they took a plunge in the deep end. I, for one, couldn’t be more thrilled.
