Indie Idols: ‘Farewell My Concubine’
In this series, we’d like to give you a little primer on those icons – movies, musicians, artists, girls-about-town, that are often cited by fashion designers, and editors, as inspiration behind collections, and editorials.
Who: Farewell My Concubine
What: 1993 Movie
Juxian, middle, and Xialou, left, with the rest of their theater group. Photo: Everett Collection
Tell Me More: Farewell My Concubine is a 1993 Chinese film based on a book by the same name. Spanning about 40 years, the film centers around two men, Dieyi and Xialou, who meet in the early 1930s, when they are young boys in an “acting school,” which trains them in the art of traditional Chinese Opera. It follows them as they grow into men, becoming celebrated actors in the Beijing Opera style, most notably through their performance of “Farewell My Concubine.” Because of Dieyi’s soft features and thin build, he has trained in playing the “dan” or female roles in the opera (as was tradition at the time, women were not allowed on stage), becoming known for his portrayal of Concubine Yu. Meanwhile, Xialou plays her king. Their opera teacher has told them to stick together, as their magic is most obvious when they are playing opposite each other.
Once they reach adulthood, it is clear that in the time that they have spent working together, playing king and concubine, Dieyi has fallen in love with Xialou, but Xialou has taken to a woman named Juxian, who he eventually becomes engaged to, causing an obvious rift between Dieyi and Xialou. The movie explores the curious relationship between the three, against the backdrop of the constant social and political changes that China underwent at the beginning of the 20th century. Farewell My Concubine is about human relations, about cultural traditions, about history.
Juxian, working at “The House of Blossoms.” Photo: Everett Collection
The movie, directed by Chen Kaige, was at the forefront of the so-called “Fifth Generation” moviemakers, who came of age after the Cultural Revolution and whose films restored a sense of romanticism and storytelling to Chinese cinema. It was nominated to two Academy Awards and is the only Chinese film to win the Palme D’or at the Cannes Film Festival. It was also selected by director Wong Kar-Wai to be part of “China: Through the Looking Glass,” the upcoming exhibit at the Costume Institute.
Dieyi in costume as Concubine Yu. Photo: Everett Collection
Signature Style: The film is known for its cinematography, which adds a sense of romanticism even in the most violent scenes. Kaige takes you by the hand and leads you through this not-always wonderful world, the squalor seems dirtier, the sad scenes seem greyer, but the moments of beauty, oh, how splendid they are! The opera costumes are magnificent, and we get to luxuriate in their intricate embroideries, the jewels, and the makeup that transforms Dieyi and Xialou into their alter egos. Juanxin’s ‘40s style is inspirational in the movie, while the costume designers never forget that she is not a rich woman, and we see her repeat outfits throughout. The clothes, the style, the way the director plays with focus and textures, all create a world that envelops you whole, and transports you to another time.
The American poster for Farewell My Concubine.
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