Meet Phillip Plein, the Designer Behind Milan’s Most Extravagant Fashion Shows

Phillip Plein has been called fashion’s most unapologetic maximalist. He must be comfortable with that crown, because his show at Milan Fashion Week last night certainly did nothing to disprove it. While many luxury designers’ shows emit a quietude and emotional coolness meant to convince you, like a gallery’s stark white walls, that something very important is going on here, Plein’s become one of Milan’s hottest tickets by consistently aiming for — and achieving — a Cirque du Soleil level of dazzlement and sensory stimulation. It’s the kind of unabashed excess that makes the jaws of even the most jaded fashion insiders drop.

To wit: Plein has staged cage fights on his runway, brought Snoop Dogg and Theophilus London on stage (the latter entering via jet ski, because why not?), built a full-size, working roller coaster. And at last night’s show, high priestess of rock ‘n’ roll excess Courtney Love performed Celebrity Skin while a robot band played. Models emerged on giant conveyor belts while robot hands accessorized them with sunglasses and bags. If it sounds completely bonkers, it was.

We visited the German-born designer’s Milan showroom just days before the spring 2016 collection was set to debut, while he and his team cast the show, put finishing touches on runway pieces, and styled the models. Whatever you might think from the revelry onstage, Plein is in the serious business of creating clothes for the devil-may-care girls (and guys) of the world — and they’re responding by making him a very fast-growing brand.

Plein called his spring collection “a tribute to the ‘90s, but looking to the future, and described his runway show as “a dreamy and fun experience — giving an experience to my customers and editors.” In fact, the word “fun” kept coming up when Plein described his clothes, his current collection, his ideal customer. It’s a fittingly unpretentious descriptor for the designer who seems to intuitively grasp his customer and what they want to wear, see, and experience. And, unlike some of the tortured auteurs in the business, Plein is totally unconflicted about giving it to them. “Screw art, let’s dance,” as the saying goes.

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