The New Cavalli Designer Gives Good Goddess Dress
Peter Dundas, formerly of Pucci, showed his debut collection for Roberto Cavalli today in Milan (Photo: Getty Images)
Fashion’s constant game of musical chairs meant two debuts for storied houses in Milan this week. On Thursday we had MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti’s first collection for Pucci, and today, former Pucci designer Peter Dundas’ debut as Roberto Cavalli’s creative director. It felt like a logical transition, and fashion insiders predicted the sexy, party-girl vibes Dundas had brought to Pucci would translate well to Cavalli. So, how did he do? Let the grading begin.
A model wears a tiered, tie-dyed mini dress on Cavalli’s spring 2016 runway. (Photo: Getty Images)
Inspiration: The show notes cite that this collection represents “an evolution, a reimagining, a change,” yet say Dundas wanted to drill down to the essence of the Cavalli brand, and pay tribute to the ultimate Cavalli woman, for whom “freedom” is paramount. A bit vague, but sure, being a sexy, freewheeling Cavalli woman sounds pretty good. Grade: B.
A model wears a one-shoulder top and oxblood leather pants at Roberto Cavalli. (Photo: Getty Images)
Ready to wear: On the runway, that “freedom” translated to a whole lot of flowy, delicate goddess dresses (often in pastel tie-dye). For separates, we got leather pants, intricately embellished high-waisted mom jeans, and awhole lotta animal print — often several different ones mixed in one outfit. We can see the one-shoulder bandeau tops with exaggerated bows being a hit at retail.
A model wears a pastel blue ruffled skirt at Roberto Cavalli’s spring 2016 show in Milan. (Photo: Getty Images)
Ditto for the tie-dyed mullet skirt (hell yes, we said tie-dyed mullet skirt), which caught the wind and flared out dramatically when the model walked. Less successful were chain-mail T-shirts paired oddly with purple mom jeans, and the big-shouldered, ruched dress that closed the show. It all felt very 80s club-queen. These aren’t clothes for minimalists, but whoever wears them will be the toast of Ibiza. Grade: B-
A model wears a lion-print dress with wide leather belt at Roberto Cavalli’s spring 2016 show.
Accessories: Most models didn’t carry bags, but there were a few woven mini bucket bags and a big fringey totes that will speak to the Cavalli girl. What we really loved, though, were the wide leather belts that cinched body-con dresses and added some much-needed toughness to the flowing goddess gowns. Grade: A-
Italian TV presenter Afef Jnifen and pop star Ciara attended today’s Roberto Cavalli show. (Photo: Getty Images)
Attendance: The crowd was more fashion-insider than star-power, with every major fashion editor, including Annas Wintour and Dello Russo, turning out to see Dundas’ debut (and okay, maybe because Cavalli is a big advertiser, if you want to be a cynic about it). Italian party girls like socialite Bianca Brandolini and TV presenter Afif Jnifen sat front row, as did pop star Ciara and blogger Chiara Ferragni (AKA The Blonde Salad). Which amused us, anyway. Grade: B.
A model wears a nude gown on Roberto Cavalli’s spring 2016 runway. (Photo: Getty Images.)
Overall: This collection won’t tempt minimalists or quirky-cool girls over to the Cavalli team, but proved Dundas has a grip on the house’s DNA, and that, like at Pucci, he still gives good goddess dress. There’s plenty here for Cavalli girls to love, and Dundas to build on. Grade: B+.
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