G-Star Raw Explores the Potential of Greenhouse-Grown Cotton
G-Star Raw unveiled the “Homegrown Denim” project on Wednesday, the first greenhouse-grown cotton initiative in collaboration with Wageningen University & Research and Dutch Cotton. It explores how cotton grown in greenhouses can minimize the impact of growing the resource-intensive fiber worldwide.
With Homegrown Denim, the Amsterdam-based denim brand aims to eliminate many of the challenges with growing cotton. Though it is an easy crop to grow, cotton is needy. In addition to using lot of land, G-Star reports that it requires up to 10,000 liters of water to yield just one kilo of fiber. Plus, considering that land must be situated in a warm climate, sourcing cotton fields marks the beginning of a long, complex supply chain—one that is increasingly asked to be more responsible and traceable.
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A six-month experiment studied a small group of greenhouse-grown cotton at a research facility in Bleiswijk, the Netherlands. The research examined quality, yield and fiber properties, comparing its environmental footprint to traditional methods. Strategies like precision irrigation and renewable energy were also explored to reduce impact, and economic viability and market potential were analyzed as well.
This research discovered that growing cotton in a controlled and protected environment boosts crop productivity, quality and sustainability while lowering the risks associated with outdoor growing.
The top benefits found included increased yield, with plants growing up to four meters tall and producing between five to 23 times more cotton, with the controlled environment enabling cotton harvesting for longer than usual. Greenhouse-grown cotton was cleaner and whiter with minimal contamination as it was shielded from weather damage. The enclosed environment naturally deters pests and diseases, eliminating the need for synthetic pesticides, the research found.
Greenhouse systems can also save up to 95 percent of water per kilo of cotton by using recycled rainwater for irrigation, while potted cultivation minimizes soil erosion, thus preserving fertility.
“G-Star’s curiosity and drive for innovation led us to our partnership with Wageningen University & Research to study the feasibility of growing cotton in a greenhouse,” Rebecka Sancho, head of sustainability at G-Star, said. “This groundbreaking experiment could revolutionize cotton production by severely decreasing water consumption and lead use, eliminating the use of chemical pesticides, improving the quality of cotton and drastically shortening the supply chain.”
With the greenhouse-grown cotton in place, G-Star partnered with local suppliers—including Spinning Jenny, Liberty Threads and Blueprint Amsterdam—to create the first-ever 100 percent locally sourced and manufactured pair of jeans. Every aspect of cotton processing and production was completed in the Netherlands. G-Star also used electric vehicles between suppliers to create the shortest supply chain possible.
At this stage, no products will be available for purchase using the greenhouse-grown cotton. Rather, the experiment wanted to investigate the feasibility and potential of growing cotton in a greenhouse. Now that the potential has been proven, a second phase will explore scaling the innovation. G-Star and Wageningen University & Research have partnered with Inno Growers to transition the research efforts into “practical cultivation” and scale-up production. The goal is to enhance cotton yield per square meter, increasing from 1.2kg to up to 2.5kg.
“This research allows us to rethink the way the entire industry is set up,” Willeke Hendriks, chief product officer of G-Star, said. “And that is exactly what we need to do to find new and effective ways to improve our impact together. Therefore, getting involved in this project was an absolute must for G-Star, to support solutions for the future of denim.”
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