How to Experience Gabriel García Márquez's Colombia in 9 Magical Ways
Just 90 minutes away from my Colombian home, close to the Caribbean Sea and surrounded by mountains, is a place of legend: Aracataca. ¿No sabes? Maybe you know it as Macondo, the town from Gabriel García Márquez’s epic One Hundred Years of Solitude. Here in this small village, the magic of magic realism began.
Inspired by the Noble Prize-winning author’s death this past April and my long-time appreciation of his work, I felt compelled to make a pilgrimage. It was in Aracataca Gabo (as he’s affectionately known by Colombians) was born 87 years ago. And it was in three other cities — Cartagena, Barranquilla, and Mompox — that he led a life as intriguing as his literary masterpieces. I hoped that by following in his footsteps some of his magic would rub off on me.
So with beach-reading season upon us — it’s about time to read Love in the Time of Cholera, yes? — here are nine ways to discover his enchanted Colombia. It’s a legacy that continues to inspire writers, such as myself, to find the magic in ordinary everyday life.
An abuela reading Gabo in Aracataca. (Photo: Haceme un 14/Flickr)
1. Gypsy Bicycle Tour — Offered by the only hostel in Aracataca, The Gypsy Residence, the aptly named bike tour “Feel the Magic of the Real Macondo” takes a literary bent through his home town and highlights the importance it holds in his writing.
2. Gabriel García Márquez’s House Museum— Fact and fiction blur on a walk through this legendary house. As I explored the rooms I could feel the magic and inspiration Márquez received through the lives of his grandparents. I was completely blown away by the sheer inspiration it gave me. I’d recommend reading his autobiography, Living to Tell the Tale, prior to arrival to make the visit even more supernatural.
Casa museo Gabriel García Marquez. (Photo: Colombia Travel/Flickr)
3. Aracataca Train Station — This remodeled station serves as a reminder of the Banana Massacre of 1928 (mysteriously described in One Hundred Years), in which dead bodies were taken by train to the sea. Be patient and wait for the train for a great photo opportunity.
Aracataca Train Station. (Photo: Haceme un 14/Flickr)
4. Casa del Telegrafista — Gabo´s father, Gabriel Eligio, worked as Aractaca’s telegraphist in the early 1900s. His office is now a small museum where you can find some of the old work machines and furniture used by Gabriel Eligio. Stop at the Montessori School if you want to see where Gabo started to read and write from a young age. You can also visit the home of the famous teacher, Rosa Elena Ferguson, who was his first love.
5. Barranquilla — Three hours from Aracataca, this port city is where Gabo became an active member of the Barranquilla Group of writers/journalists/philosophers, a great stimulation for his literary career. Visit La Cueva, the famous bar where bohemian artists and writers drank, conversed, and extravagantly criticized art, literature, and poetry. You can also stop by the Caribbean Museum where there is a room dedicated to his life when worked as a journalist for El Herald. They have recreated his office as it was back then.
Gabriel Garci?a Ma?rquez en La Cueva. (Photo: Pau Garci?a Solbes/Flickr)
6. La Cartagena de Gabriel García Márquez — I bought this essential audio tour in the beautiful coastal city of Cartagena (home to Gabo in the ‘90s and supposed setting for Love in the Time of Cholera, The General in His Labyrinth and Love and Other Demons). With over 35 stops it explored the historical city, identifying places and people that enthralled him while he was here and which served as inspiration to his stories. The well-kept architecture and charming narrow streets evoked the characters from the famous stories I hold so dear.
Cartagena’s colorful historic center. (Photo: iStock/Thinkstock)
7. Casa Pombo — Stay the night in Cartagena in this stylishly restored boutique hotel dating back to 1585. Book the main suite of apartment 201 and sleep in the same bed that Javier Bardem used during the filming of the movie, Love in the Time of Cholera.
Cartagena Bookshop. (Photo: Carlos Adampol Galindo/Flickr)
8. Santa Cruz de Mompox — This quaint historical town (also known as Mompós) encompasses an era of Colombia that Gabo wrote so avidly about, although is not often thought of as part of his literary territory (his wife is from a nearby town). The trip here is dreamy and romantic: a bus from Cartagena to Magangué followed by a short boat trip up the grand Magdalena River to Mompox. In his memoir, Living to Tell the Tale, he lovingly describes the trips he took up the Magdalena River. This town also provided the inspiration and settings for The General in His Labyrinth.
9. La Casa Amarilla — This wonderfully renovated home dates back to the 17th century and offers a lavish colonial experience right on the Magdalena River in the historic center. The owners boast a vast amount of information regarding this charming town’s role in Colombia’s history.
The Magdalena River in Mompox. (Photo: Casa Amarilla)
Calles de Mompox. (Photo: Colombia Travel/Flickr)
Jacqui de Klerk is a freelance environment and travel writer for publications such as The City Paper Bogota and Quimera Divers. After living and traveling in several countries, the beauty and passion of Colombia got rooted deep her soul, leading her to call it home.